obviously if it's on a tripod, how about a monopod and hald-held filming or on a steadicam (I might buy the Melrin 2 some day)
Shooting at 60fps is indeed at half the data rate on a per frame basis. It's basic math. Same 50Mbps distributed over more frames means there is less data per frame. The caveat though, is that the compression algorithm is usually good enough to make the difference almost invisible. There might be more macroblocking or artifacts in a busy scene because of the lower data rate but I haven't seen anything too noticeable.
Filming at 60fps also means you will need more light/ bigger f stop to avoid higher ISO, so for some situations it may not be as good as a lower frame rate.
I use Mercalli to stabilize shots, and I use the "keep border" option which prevents warping. I've never tried other software, but for me Mercalli is practically flawless. It only misbehaved when trying to stabilize deinterlaced footage, and that's not the program's fault, it's because deinterlacing is not a perfect science.
Smaller focal length means handheld is more stable. Handheld is much easier with AF. When I use my Voigtlanders for video, I have to be extra stiff with my arms and body while maintaining focus. Mercalli really saves the day provided you're not filming an earthquake.
@Mistas Makes sense. Thanks for further clarification.
Filming at 60fps also means you will need more light/ bigger f stop to avoid higher ISO, so for some situations it may not be as good as a lower frame rate.
You see less noise with 60P than with 30P or 24P because noise is so rapid that it is hard to see. It averages in eye and brain.
noise is so rapid that it is hard to see
@Vesku Can you give some practical example of this? please
I have tested it and that is how it works. Difference is small. easy to test itself. Needs original files to examine.
@Vesku I'm asking 'cause I've tested too and I didn't came to same conclusion (rather the opposite), who knows maybe I did "somethin' wrong"... that's why I'm asking. Peace bro
I made my tests with high end plasmatv. It may behave differently than a computer LCD. Differences are more clear. All videos shows so much better in generally with plasma too. Less noise and more sharpness and clarity. Like GH3 becoming Alexa just by changing a monitor :)
If viewing at 60fps then it makes sense for noise to be less visible because motion is smoother, but if slowing down the footage by 40% for a 24fps delivery, methinks the noise will be there in all its expected glory.
Also if you watch high iso 24P footage with a good frame interpolation to 60P there is less visible noise and of course smoother look but that is a different matter.
I'd like to ask a favor if any of you have the time. I dropped my GH3 and hoping I didn't cause problems. Camera is fine... only fell a couple of feet. Not dents or scratches BUT....
Just shot a clip outside trying to capture a few winter scenes. The amount of noise is incredible. I don't get it. There was plenty of natural light. It's too dark outside now to retest using MOV 50Mbps setting.
ISO: 200 SS: 60, Mode: 30p MOV All Intra Lens: Pany 14-140mm shooting at 14mm f.5. Natural -5, -3, -3, -5.
I've loaded the actual file in my DropBox. The file is about 290MBs. I know it's a lot to ask and I'm not trying to be a pain in the a** - but If anyone can download it an give some feedback I would greatly appreciated. Notice center frame. Lots of dancing pixels. -5 Noise reduction maybe too low? All Intra vs 50Mbps Interframe? Maybe it's me but I don't remember seeing this much noise with so much available light.
The question is: Does this video look "normal" to other GH3 users for the settings listed above.
Thanks in advance.
@maddog15 yes. "Problem" is you've got HUGE amount of fine detail and if you add the noisier All-i, well that's what one gets. Recently I runned into similar issues, aggravated with badly underexposure and in-built WB. In my shitty tests custom target WB showed better results, even noticeable and more accurate in/with camera display =)
@maxr Thanks a bunch. I usually shoot 50Mbs Interframe so I was hoping that was the culprit.
I downloaded it and yes, it does have a lot of noise. It looks like a shoot at +600Iso on my Gh3. Iso200 looks much cleaner on mine unless it's really really dark. That's what I can tell you as intensive Gh3 user, as soon as I played the clip all that noise is what I saw first. I don't shoot as flat as you either though.
@UEstudios Thank you for taking time to look at it. I now believe it's mainly because of the 30p 72Mpbs All-Intra setting. I usually shoot 50Mpbs IPB which my experience has shown to be much cleaner in regard to noise. All Intra is really not a viable setting until the bit rate gets to 100+. (Check out the GH4 announcements)
I'd like to ask a favor if any of you have the time. I dropped my GH3 and hoping I didn't cause problems. Camera is fine... only fell a couple of feet. Not dents or scratches BUT....
I dropped mine 8-10 meters, straight onto rocky ground. It did not turn off, and it worked perfectly afterwards. It did get a few scratches, the manual lens got its UV-filter dented, the eggtimer plastic half was scrathed (it fell because a timelapse eggtimer split in two, and this was probably the most dampening part), and the protection of the internal flash - the part with the "Lumix" text - broke straight off and the flash looked mangled (never tried it before getting the camera repaired). But otherwise it was fine. I took a couple of weeks of photos before repairing it. Obviously the flipscreen was not out and about during this mishap, and I was lucky with how my camera hit the ground, but know that if you aren't really unlucky, a two feet drop is likely to be nothing. Yes, I also lost the EVF mussle, so it was probably also part of the lucky crashdown dampening...
@larsarus Yep I was lucky. Your scenerio would have caused a change of underwear on my part. (Sorry to the group for posting off topic.)
The eternity for my camera to drop from the mount on the fence to the rocks below was hell. I doubt my heart did a beat for that duration. Then I remembered that all it took was money and I would be back in business, and I managed to stagger down to inspect the damage. Boy was I surprised...
• Using a blue adjustment layer after basic color correction in Premiere Pro CC to achieve a cold, or cool, cinematic feel. • Warp Stabilizer and Varavon Slidecam 900S • Natural -5 -4 -3 -5 • Lens: Lumix 14-142mm f4.0 • 1.2 ND filter • Shot in 60p 50Mbps (59.94fps) then reinterpreted in Premiere Pro to 23.97fps
@maddog15, fantastic video! :)
Is that your preferred settings now? I am getting dizzy from all the suggestions in this thread :)
@tosvus Thanks a lot. :) Yep... for the most part I always use Natural and the settings listed above. Note: I only shoot 60fps when I intend to slow the footage down to 23.97. Otherwise it's the 24p 50Mbps IPB setting for shooting anything else. The only thing I'll bring up, or closer, to the "0" setting is saturation. Especially if skin tones are involved. I want to shoot flattest image possible to maintain dynamic range and pixel information. Gives you more control for color correcting and grading in post.
Nice job ... liked the winter "feel" to your grade.
@maddog15 Winter Shots video looks great - really pro stuff here. Well done.
@maddog15 Thanks! :) I will go with these settings too, seeing the results you are getting!
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