I've had Lut Buddy for some time. I've used it some, made a couple of my own, and yes, purchased a fair number ... including from a dude that has his own thread around here somewhere. In my work I don't actually use them that much, though. So I've not built up the experience to say, know the difference between rec709 and log either theoretically or practically.

One of those nasty things about doing it ... and learning it ... whilst making a living, one doesn't have the time to "play" with things as much as one would like. "Playing" with stuff is a great way to learn, but I've just got to get stuff out the door. And my stuff is really simple compared to say, a lot of the vids posted here. Learning and gearing up as I go along, of course. Always trying to learn. In as little time as possible. :)

Neil

@yak Correct, rec709 to LOG won't do anything directly. A LOG profile will respond to grading differently compared to rec709. The question is whether or not the difference is of any real benefit.

Trying some less flat, richer contrast grading. Applying an adjustment layer in Premiere Pro CC with a 30% gaussian blur. Then setting the blend mode to Soft Light. Gives a deeper contrast, soft, rich romanticized feel. Camera set on Natural -5 -3 -3 -2, 60fps, 1080p. Using the Varavon 900S Slidecam.

How does it compare to yak's?

Ah, okay.

hi guys! 22 pages...could anyone please provide the latest info on which settings are best for video recording? (for outdoor, indoor, concert shooting with low light) thanks so much! also what woudl be the best color setting for photos? ;-)

@RRRoger Can you expand a bit on, "I am now thoroughly confused?"

"every setting from all 0 to -5 with little visable difference." Unless you have a bad camera the difference between 0 and -5 on any setting is vast to my eyes. Try again with beginners eyes, side by side comparisons of the footage, be critical, you'll see.

@olli66

I dont know what colors do you like, vivid or neutral. That is your choice. I use Natural 0. I use a high end plamaTV for watching and it has very good contrast and rich colors so with average LCD things may be different.

Contrast affects much of dynamic range.

I use SH -5, NR -5 with Panasonic lenses. GH3 sharpening creates thick lines and halos. NR softens details, better to do in post or in player or TV.

If you want DSRL of film like result aperture and shutter speed are important and you must shoot 24 or 30P. SH -5 obviously. If you want Canon look soften more in post and kill highlights and shadows :)

@maddog15 and @Vesku thanks guys! will try! just one thing I don't understand: applying a negative setting of -5 for sharpness for example means to me sharpness is already reduced in camera, to my understanding only a positive setting of +1 to +5 would make the camera add sharpness, no?

@Vesku Yes...1600. Thanks for the correction. @olli66 That's a good question that also baked my noodle. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but - the way I understand it is you have an eleven digit scale. -5, -4, -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, +3, +4 and +5. 0% sharpening is -5. Maximum Sharpening is +5. Soooo... a Sharpening of "0" on the camera is really like 5.5 on a scale of eleven numeric settings. No sharpening "-5". 50% Sharpening "0". 100% or Maximum Sharpening "+5". Hope that makes sense.

From most of the testing posted here (thanks guys!) and my own stuff, for @olli66 I'd say the "range" of considerations are to use Natural or Standard (each has their supporters ... natural probably leads though) and get your WB as spot-on in-cam as possible. Also exposure is critical, you don't have a 'RAW' file here or a file of the depth of the pro-model cameras. So ... get your WB and exposure nailed in-cam. Don't assume any leeway, work to get them spot-on.

You'll correct both in post for most purposes ... but you've got to have good stuff in to get a file which allows some good post work to make it really pretty ... or nasty, if that's what you're going for.

Contrast ... -5 gives you the widest range of recorded detail whites/blacks, but some folks have noted a bit more apparent noise in the deep shadows with this ... which may be a bit better (less visible) at a contrast setting of -4 or -3. For quick work delivered near out-of-cam, some will go "clear up!" to a "0" setting on contrast.

Best color sat is dependent on how much work you'll be doing in post and how much skin you've got. The GH3 can be funky on skin mids and highlights, some people prefer the lowest -5, for quickie output maybe -1, I've ended up for most purposes shooting -3 on saturation. Nothing comes in over-cooked and I can work it pretty decently in Speedgrade.

Sharpening ... oh my, few cameras do this decently in-cam and the GH3 ain't one of them. Strongly suggest between -5 to -3 as your "standard", I'm one of the -5 ones.

Noise reduction can also mess up your images ... nail your exposure and turn the NR down to at least -4 though you'll find mine at -5.

Did I mention nail your WB and exposure in-cam? And on WB ... also get used to using the little grid adjustment thingie ... Some around here like me have a tool for setting WB, then go into the grid and modify it from past experience. Learn how you like that set, and then what alterations you prefer on the grid selector to get stuff looking best balanced coming into post work.

Neil

stupid question: white balance: bringing a piece of white paper and adjusting wb with that paper?

Another stupid question:

If you set your white balance with white card in yellowish electrical lightning is the result too neutral compared to what an eye see and what our brain knows about that lightning. If shooting in city lights would it be better to have an accurate color instead of neutral color. Same matter with sunsets light. When it is reasonable to use white card or is it ok to use it always? I dont know because I always use auto WB and I am happy with it.