Personal View site logo
Make sure to join PV on Telegram or Facebook! Perfect to keep up with community on your smartphone.
Driftwood Cluster X series 3:│moon T7│ЅріzZ T6│Nebula T7│Drewnet T9│
  • 1811 Replies sorted by
  • I tried shooting with idynamic on and didn't see any real difference. Am I missing something?

  • Depends on the lighting situation.

  • DREWnet T9, So far so good. In fact I decided to use it to shot a 'The making of...' for my friend's new short film. Enjoy the test and as always thanks to the man himself @driftwood.

  • @callan I've tried Spizz T6 'final' 1080i PAL on a Lumix G3 with 20/1.7 and SanDisk Extreme 45MB/s 32GB, and it seems to be spanning just fine (stopped manually after 20 minutes @ 72Mbit/s, footage split into 3 files). Passes the "death chart" test as well. I haven't done any real-world tests though. The previous Spizz T6 'beta' was rock solid in all conditions, but with a lower (65-ish) max bitrate.

  • @karas Sorry ,should have mentioned GH2. I rarely need spanning so the 'final' will probably be my stock hack. If I need to span then I can either fall back to the beta or use a '95' 64 card. The difference in performance that was noted is I suspect simply due to tolerances in camera & card specs. The main thing is I know where I stand with my kit. In time it will be T7 and the better card.

  • Having a great time using Drewnet T9. Getting some great looking stuff and it's even spanning on my 45mbps card! The only issue I seem to be coming up against is that when it has spanned and I stop the recording, I get an error saying "File limit reached" and I can't record any more, even though the card is nowhere near full. Any ideas?

  • gh2 t9 Ob. TAMRON SP 500MM+2XTELEPLUS MC7

  • @jebsly Here are the usual possible "toggles", so you can see if any of them help at all.

    Option 1) Record a short clip (just a second or two) right after the long clip before doing anything else.

    Option 2) Turn off the camera and eject the camera. Re-insert the card and turn on again.

    *Option 3) If option 2 did not work, there is an approach that some people advise against but that I've used several times without negative consequence - DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. Repeat step 2, except keep the camera on while removing or inserting the card.

    Hopefully at least one of those will do it - I haven't had the issue in a while, so I'm afraid I don't remember the rate of effectiveness.

  • Another thing that will trigger that response is if you turn the camera off while its still recording instead of stopping the roll. I know that sounds stupid but I've done it a few times when I was running around like a crazy person. Only way to fix it was pull the card, offload the files and reformat it

  • @thepalalias

    Eject the card and then turn off the camera.

    That's bad advice. You should never remove or insert the card while the camera is powered up.

  • @Jim_Simon It's fine if you want to be cautious - in the literally millions of pictures and hours upon hours of footage I've shot on digital cameras, it has never been an issue. If you've had negative experiences, I would obviously suggest that you give that more weight than my own. Also, if you have links to people sharing their negative experiences with what happened, it might help dissuade me in the future.

    My approach is pretty simple - when the card isn't working, I go through the list of things I can do to get it working.

    Out of respect for the voice of caution I will change the order in my instructions and add your concern.

    But if memory serves, the reason I tried in the first place originally was because in one case the "recommended" approach didn't work and this did. I've made a habit of switching cards in cameras while the camera is powered on (sometimes dozens of times in one day when doing patch testing) - the important part is to not do while the card is being written to.

  • Thanks @thepalalias I'll give those a go if it happens again.

  • For any other Premiere CC users out there I've found that Moon T7 was too high of bitrate for my 2.53 i5 macbook pro and 21.5" iMac (Late 2012) 2.7 GHz, both those machines choked trying to edit .MTS files. The Prores 422HQ transcodes looked great and gave no problem editing. Prores response is way more snappier. :) framegrab from Lost Wilderness feature. Just a couple more scenes to shoot and its wrapped.

    sharper.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 602K
  • @Imaginate The grab looks great! I will have to agree with you on converting to Prores.

  • Wonder how long it took to transcode 64gb footages to 422HQ Prores?

  • @tinbeo a 1.8 gig file just took 16 mins , thats 8.8 mins per gig... 9.5 hours for 64 gb. (macbook pro 2.53 ghz w 8 megs ram ) Maybe need to find a faster machine for this transcoding. I'm just about to buy 5D2RGB batch.

  • Here is a teaser trailer for a short film shot entirely with Moon t7. Such amazing detail in this patch!! Used sete and a 32gb 45mb/s and had no problems whatsoever.

  • @HelloHicups , looks nice. One thing I've noticed with the GH2 is how well it works with natural light, and T7 is definitely a beast.

  • @sleepy32 Thanks! and the Gh2 still amazes me everyday! Such a great camera!

  • @Imaginate Holy crap!! Yeah man, you need a faster machine there. I transcode at about a gig a min. That's really slow :(

  • @HelloHicups That's nice, what kind of lens did you have used?

  • @zsound I used Canon FD glass. A Vivitar 28mm f2.5 and a Canon 50mm f1.8

  • @HelloHicups What adapter to you use? Been having trouble finding a good one.

  • @vicharris good to hear that, I'll probably get better results from the quadcore imacs. What is your computer?

  • @Imaginate

    Prob the wrong spot but I put all my spec in the hackintosh thread. Just built one a month or two ago for $1600. Best money spent and it blows through transcodes.

Start New Topic

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Sign In with Google Sign In with OpenID

Sign In Register as New User

Tags in Topic

Top Posters