@Eno ive always used the shutter button.

@Sph1nxster the screw is metal so if it happens to bridge two contacts on the ciruit board it will fry something. there is no real easy way other than opening it up.

@mrfanny how safe is it to open the case? Am I likely to cause damage by trying to allow it to fall out? I have screwdrivers that will fit the case screws.

@Sph1nxster I have no idea. remember it is a weathersealed body so it might be a bit more complicated than a normal body. I'm just letting the service centre do the job for me under warranty. they really need to cement those screws in.

@Sph1nxster got my cam back a week after drop off. they loctited the screws in place. the slightest paint chip underneith where the back separates from the front at the battery end (yes i am a detail freak) but other than that its as good as new. I dont think ill be taking another chance, looking at that varavon armour cage to mount leds on now.

I think it's more of a hardware issue insofar as the record button is too small/recessed. AFAIK if you really push it it will start recording every time.

Why not use creative video mode instead and the regular shutter button if you are serious about video?

First of all, excuse me for my english.

I have noticed a weird problem with RAW timelapses on my GH3. I recently started using RAW images for timelapses because I can recover more detail from underexposed areas in post. But it looks like something is wrong.

In this video you can see two timelapse tests affected by this problem. They have been done with all manual settings (exposure, white balance, shutter speed and ISO). ISO levels are 125 for the first test and 200 for the outdoor timelapse. The clips marked with "A" are the timelapse sequences straight from the camera, the ones marked with "B" have been modified in exposure with Camera RAW. As you can see, there is a noticeable color shift between some pictures: some of them tend to blue creating an ugly color flickering. This problem is evident in underexposed areas, especially after increasing exposure. I generally use After Effect and GBDefliker for deflickering timelapses, but this solution can't work for color changes like this on underexposed areas. I have tried changing lens, but the problem has still happened. I really can't understand why this happens.

If you want to try replicating this problem:

1) Set all settings manually (WB,ISO,aperture,shutter speed).

2) Shoot a timelapse in a room with a few light in order to obtain underexposed images (do not use long exposures).

3) Shoot at least 30/50 pictures in timelapse mode.

4) Check the RAW files and increase exposure even if you can see noticeable banding.

Can you see some pictures with an evident color shift in the sequence?

Agreed, that looks like processing issue than camera issue. I've seen colour shifts on video like this on video when WB is set to auto and say clouds roll over or in your case possibly (doing white balance after adjusting levels of each raw frame). How do you process your RAW files?

@yellowapple

Well that's strange, try some steps.

If you leave the footage without the +5 exposure do you still see the blue in the images? Did you have anything in camera set to auto?

Do you think its possible to repeat the issue in new footage re-checking all the options to manual so that the camera doesn't change anything by its one.

Try changing timelaps interval.

does the problem show in video also?

did you try .jpg timelaps does it shows blue also?

Maybe try with different lens.

I just say this to be sure that is really a sensor/camera problem.

If the problem persist, don't take my word for it I'm no expert, I thing you have to see a professional.

@leonbeas

I can't see the blue images in the first footage before increasing exposure because it's too dark, but in the second one it is possible to notice the bricks changing color even in the original untouched RAW sequence (it's more evident after increasing exposure, but if you pay attention you can see color shift in the RAW files straight from the camera, try downloading my footage in Vimeo for a better quality).

The two timelapses have been made with all manual shutter speed/WB/aperture/iso.

Unfortunately it is very easy for me to repeat the issue. I have already tried two or three more timelapse with all manual settings and the issue was there again.

I should try changing the interval, in all these timelapse tests it was 1 second. I will try a new timelapse test with 2 seconds.

Looks like video mode has no problem.

I have not tried with .jpg because there is a very annoing bug (another!) when working with timelapses in this format: sometimes some pictures may have a distortion that ruins timelapses (only in .jpg, not in RAW), probably a bug in camera lens correction ( http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3452782 ). I also avoid .jpeg because of better quality and editing with RAW.

I already tried another lens, but nothing changed. The color shift is still there.

Should I upload two original consecutive RAW files with the color shift for you to analyze?

@MRfanny thanks!

I have my camera updated with the last firmware (1.1) and the lens too are updater with the latest firmware. I have done around 10 different timelapse tests today and the issue is always there. I tried changing the interval with 2 seconds, I changed WB with the preset onces, I tried changing lens again, I tried using electronic shutter. Nothing changed. Some photos are blue/green compared to the others. It looks like (but I am not sure about this) that this happens when you you use quick shutter speed 1/50, 1/00 etc. If you want to do a test, you need to take a timelapse in a place with light and really underexposed objects at the same time (use black objects for the test). If you have this problem too, you will notice some green/blue shots, especially after increasing exposure for the darker/underexposed objects.

@yellowapple

Do test only inside with artificial lighting. As outside all this can happen naturally due to clowds.