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Vests and arms for steadicams topic
  • 42 Replies sorted by
  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    @cp_from_oz

    I am not talking about "knock-off". I am telling that it is intermediate that just stick their own badge.

  • kavadnikavadni

    Is there a plan to have the matching Wondlan Sled available with the leopard arm?

  • cp_from_ozcp_from_oz

    There is also a Laing M02 version which has the rare feature of an integrated tilt head and also greater flexibility with monitor positioning

    I know guys who made initial positive review with video up soon and he says they supply various strength springs.

  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    @cp_from_oz

    Laing M02 is available on our deals now, you can PM me to get details.

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  • robmneilsonrobmneilson

    The wondland looks great. I may have to look into getting a Leopard IV when I have some cash to burn. Does anyone know what price range these run?

  • TobsenTobsen

    That Laing socket block looks like a good solution regading adjustment. I hope I can get something like that for the Wondlan to make it work better.

  • cp_from_ozcp_from_oz

    @Tobsen As far as I can tell from various listed photos, the Laing M02 vest/arm is almost identical to the Wondlan Leopard vest/dual arm, apart from some different cutout shapes on the side and embossed lettering on top. It is hard to tell if there is any difference in metal or spring specification without having them side by side. However, the socket block attachment and adjustments on the two look essentially identical - each offering dual axis adjustment to control the "direction of fall" for the arm. Do you currently have a Wondlan Leopard dual arm? What adjustment do you think it lacks in comparison to the Laing? Or are you referring to the Wondlan single arm which I understand has just a "drop in" pin system to connect it with the vest? If you have a single-arm system, it would be interesting to hear your feedback on how the lack of "fall adjustment" has affected your shooting and/or posture!

  • TobsenTobsen

    @cp_from_oz I have the dual arm and it lacks the function to tilt it "away from the body" and "towards the body". Just left/right adjustment. Sorry for my poor English - no idea how to call it.

  • TobsenTobsen

    @cp_from_oz It does not really affect my posture and shooting since the entire system fits me very well out of the box. It just falls a tiny bit forward with heavier rigs. In that case, I would adjust it to fall a bit towards my body before locking in the cam, which is unfotunately not possible (except I am blind and have overlooked something).

  • cp_from_ozcp_from_oz

    @Tobsen Could you perhaps provide a photo of your socket block / arm connection? I am having difficulty working out what model you have and how it adjusts.

    The Wondlan dual arm vest that I have seen (basically identical to the Laing M02 vest) has two screws with round black knobs facing forward (one above the other) on the silver "female socket block" part of the vest. The male socket block section is inserted beside these screws, and then the screws are tightened to lock in the socket block. You can adjust one screw tighter than the other to affect whether the socket block tilts slightly forward or backward, which means the arm will fall away or fall towards you. There are also two black dials set into the male socket block section that adjust the "left to right" fall of the arm.

  • TobsenTobsen

    @cp_from_oz Just check page 1 - there I posted the socket block and how diffiult it is to adjust the left/tight balance.

  • cp_from_ozcp_from_oz

    @Tobsen OK ... check the black dials that are set into the silver part of the male socket block. Adjusting these dials should cause the two pins (called "rod ends") to move independently horizontally in and out of the block. This angle adjusts the "left to right fall" of the arm. You should be able to adjust the dials easily when the arm is loaded, but you may find it easier to check when the arm is unloaded. In the Steadicam Operator's Handbook (by Jerry Holway) they recommend to have the bottom pin all the way in, then back it off 1/8 of a turn. The top pin should be all the way in and then backed off about three turns. Then adjust the top pin either way to fine tune. (This is a good starting position for Steadicam brand systems, and should be similar for Wondlan). If your dials do not move the pins, you may have a faulty unit.

  • TobsenTobsen

    @cp_from_oz. That is what I thought when I bought it, but the black dials just lock the screws. They cannot move the pins since those are connected to each other through a vertical pin. You need to unscrew the vertical pin (like I did in the photos) in order to turn them. Believe me, I tried - that is the only way.

  • sammysammy

    Whats a good Steadicam with vest and arm for something like a ursa mini , or even a little larger original alexa, so up to 20 pounds..anything good 1000$ and under?

  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    http://www.personal-view.com/deals/stabilizers-steadicams-gimbals/laing

    Laing is really cheapest among things that are made for real work.

    For larger cameras and lenses they have M35, M50 is out of stock as I know.

  • sammysammy

    Ok thanks appreciate the input

  • zcreamzcream

    I am in the process of moving to my ag-3da1 for projects. And a Sony f3. Due to their larger sizes I can only use 2000$ came tv prodigy. So I am looking at stabilizers now. About 5-6 kg weight of camera + recorder. Is laing m30s still the best option?

    Also any issues with 3d footage using stabilizers?

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