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Official Low GOP topic, series 2
  • 1022 Replies sorted by
  • If you guys can get 25PsF to work, that's the best news this year..
  • Finally making a bit of headway, Ive got GOP1 off the frame limiter (in fact its slightly higher than default) and onto AQ0. i frames around 795,000 now so looking good. AQ1 is the next mission... onwards...
  • @driftwood godspeed, amigo! I've used Quantme on two shoots now with terrific results (I'll try to get something up soon). Keep up the great work.
  • @driftwood and anyone else. why don't you post with all of your patches from oldest to newest each time you hand out a new one? I don't know why people don't do this more often. these threads move quick and people just now coming in are going to have a hard time testing and using.
  • @bkmcwd I'm very impressed with your DIY steadicam - that looks to be the result of a large amount of work. The gimbal is likely far more sturdy than that of the Merlin, too. I'm curious about it's weight, however.

    As for general steadicam opinions - I highly recommend the Merlin and a lot of practice. I've used many steadicam varietals and the price/size/performance of the Merlin wins most often. People are often surprised when they find out I'm not shooting on a larger rig, and frankly the size of the Archer/Pilot/Zephyr or comparable models just cannot get the low or high shots I can on the move. Now, shooting an hour long + show without the vest is always a trial, but hey - practice, rinse, and repeat. Even diy or tiny budget steadicams can make for solid shots in the right hands.
  • @driftwood. I know you hear it all the time, but again, thank you for GOP1. Shot in an aquarium today, difficult lighting, lots of shadows, and I couldn't be more pleased with what we brought home.
  • @driftwood I agree with @f1lm3r
    I think you should also detail the known strengths and weaknesses of each patch and also what exactly you were going for with the patch (it's uses basically). I think it would be really useful if you did that because not everyone known whats going on with all of these different parameters you're changing and why you're changing them exactly. If you could just detail a little bit more, it'd be greatly appreciate it :D

    Also, GREAT job so far!
  • @bkmcwd I shot a fair bit with the 154M GOP3 yesterday and the results were great and it had no issues. Thanks, great work.

    I get what your saying about your steadicam, I will probably go with the merlin, though I've heard positive things said about the glidecam too recently.
  • @DancingCamera
    Thanks! :-)

    "I'm curious about it's weight"

    This set is 2.8 kg including GH2 and 14-140mm lens.
    Although I also have a 1.7-kg DIY set including the camera and the lens, for me, the equipment of a weight of about 3 kg is stabilized and I am easy-to-use.

    "I highly recommend the Merlin and a lot of practice."
    "practice, rinse, and repeat"

    You know exactly!
    My DIY steadicam has required only 10,000-15,000yen if it is the cost of materials, but I have spent time fairly.
    Since it is a hobby to make steadicam, I am enjoying myself, but I also recommend Merlin to those who want to use practically from the beginning.
    If there is a person aiming at making steadicam itself, I will be able to do some advice, but it is thread another again...
  • @Stray
    Thank you for your quick test always!
    I felt easy as the result was good.
    My friend is also satisfied with the result in lowlight.

    I consider that Merlin is a very wonderful product.
    Glidecam is also the same.
    I think that I would like to also make glidecam type before long since it is a hobby to build DIY steadicam. ;-)
  • @driftwood, this is very good news, I am excited for more... just in time for the new cage to start getting made :)
  • Hey, anyone else getting spectacular results on ETC mode with Driftwood's latest? I can't even tell the difference anymore between ETC and regular mode without the most extreme pixel peeping. Samples below (tight is obviously ETC). Shot today at 300mm on the panny 100-300mm lens (ignore the .jpg tight -- accidentally uploaded it but can't delete it for some reason).
    00005_2011-10-11 9.13.13 PM.png
    1920 x 1080 - 3M
    00011_2011-10-11 8.57.09 PM.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 536K
    00011_2011-10-11 8.57.09 PM.png
    1920 x 1080 - 3M
  • @Stray
    I improved the patch again for lowlight. :-)
    It seems that the frame size at the time of lowlight becomes larger about twenty more percent than a former setting.
    Although the test of zooming and moving was done repeatedly, a write error did not come out, either.
    I have not tried on outdoor yet, but I expect that frame size will become large on the whole situation than a former setting.
    Although I stick for a sense what changed the former set into AQ3, I consider that the grade from which frame size falls in the set of Q=10 is the better.

    NOTE:
    It is appropriation from Chris's former 44M except 24p.
    All screen shots are from kmcwd154M3GOPQ=10.zip.

    EDIT:
    My friend gave the name of "NINJA" to these patches.

    UPDATE:
    The 3rd patch is rong! :P
    The 4th patch is improved one from Q=10,NINJA setting.
    bkmcwd154M3GOPQ=10.zip
    561B
    bkmcwd154M3GOPAQ3.zip
    544B
    154MQ10FBx3FLx1.05TBx8.4_4.JPG
    1297 x 632 - 184K
    154MQ10FBx3FLx1.05TBx8.4_6.JPG
    1298 x 633 - 162K
    sample2.JPG
    1294 x 632 - 164K
    setd.zip
    568B
    setd.zip
    567B
  • Hi all.
    First of all thanks for your efforts.
    Excited about possible 25p I did some tests with Driftwood's GOPstoppa setting.
    Unfortunately it appears that 1080i is still interlaced.
    I don't have streamparser. I converted the .MTS files with 5dtoRGB and log and transfer and looked at them in Final Cut Pro.
    I assume the workflow with streamparser does some kind of de-interlacing or line skipping.
    I'm already very happy with the hack-improved 24p. Of course 25p would be great.
    Below two interlaced shots: One converted with log and transfer, one with 5dtoRGB. And a 24p shot. Not the same scene but the results are pretty obvious.
    Please tell me if I missed a setting. I used the GOPstoppa setting without altering anything.
    Thanks. And keep up the great work!
    50i-logandtransfer.png
    1920 x 1080 - 3M
    24p.png
    1920 x 1080 - 2M
    50i-5dtorgb.png
    1920 x 1080 - 3M
  • @bkmcwd I would be interested to see the results of this one outdoors, especially with high detail. You're getting very good I-Frame sizes from a GOP3 at lowlight with the earlier patch I think. I'm currently trying to get a higher bitrate out of 1080i and 720p at GOP12 or I'd give it a go myself now.

    On 25p I don't reckon we'll get 25p out of changing any of the settings we currently have in ptool.
  • @Stray
    If the weather is not bad, I will be going to test in a neighboring park tomorrow.
    Although I am very interested also in 60i and 60p, I cannot start there yet.
    When a setting good as a result of all your efforts is done, I will also refer to it.

    Since there is no necessity in my environment about 25p, I do not understand well, but if I see you suffering troubles, I also feel quite difficultly. :-(
  • Excuse my ignorance but why are so many excited about 25p when we already have 24p? I know it's a PAL thing but other than being a different standard I don't see anything special about it?
  • @starstuff http://personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/5231#Comment_5231 There are other reasons, (as well as being able to mix footage easily with other 25p cameras), a lot of places/people you deliver your footage too will demand 25p (broadcast especially) in PAL land, or 50i. All of the workarounds to convert/conform 24p to 25p aren't exactly great.

    I don't think its going to happen without something from Panasonic (unlikely) because as Vitaliy has said there is no sensor setup mode for 25p.
  • @starstuff
    PAL is still very widespread. Might even be more people living in PAL countries than NTSC. And apart from theatrical releases we still have to deliver everything at 25fps. 50i would be an option but that just looks ugly and video-ish. So with the GH2 we have to either edit in 24p and then speedup and pitch-correct the final movie to 25fps or speedup and pitch-correct all the footage prior to editing (That's what I do). And working with dual system audio makes the whole workflow even more complicated.
    So the hacked GH2 at 24p is great but a bit complicated for us and 25p would make our life with the GH2 quite a bit easier in PAL-Land.
    I know this has been discussed in other threads. I'd just like to point out once again that 25p would be very cool and make a lot of people happy.
  • @Stray

    Didn't Mr Uetmasu (product developer at Panasonic Japan) confirm (or kinda) there was a firmware update on the works with 25p support and some other improvements in video abilities? Or have I missed anything? I remember an interview about it in ePhotozine, where he even said he was aware and impressed with the "hackers" work (that's when I thought "Vitaly's famous").

    I agree the workarounds aren't great, though as said in the link you posted, it's fairly common here in Europe.
  • @Raysito22 The last update, video interview thing, I saw on the subject from panasonic pretty much said there were no plans to include 25p in a firmware update. There is somewhere on this site a link to the interview, it was a Q&A session. There is an update coming from Panasonic, but its just to support the new X lenses I believe. But yeah, I did read Mr Uetmasu say that, but he did use the word 'may'.
  • bkmcwd,
    Just to clarify, is your bkmcwd154M3GOPAQ3.zip your latest (20% low light improvement) file from above?

    Also, is the rogue "p" frame at the start causing any issues?
  • @proaudio4
    Sorry! My explanation was unclear. ;-)
    My latest (20% low light improvement) file is bkmcwd154M3GOPQ=10.zip.

    "is the rogue "p" frame at the start causing any issues?"
    I do not understand well.
    Do you know how to remove this p frame?
    I may be having missed.
    Or it may be being unable to remove.
  • @proaudio4 The rogue P frame doesn't seem to be causing any issues, just trim off the start of the file in your NLE.
  • What is the most stable SD card for these settings?
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