I think it is just some damage.

Try to remove rubber and see how lens moves, may be something is stuck and prevents proper movement.

Some old push-pull lenses have small pins broke so during movement elements do not move properly.

Same thing as @disluke ..no luck either

Bought it from ebay for about $140.(shipping+customs including ) Very happy with the purchase. Looks clean and performance is very good.Thanks for the recommendation.

I had to return mine because I couldn't figure out the issue, but I too bought mine for around $30.

My cost was $60+40 Shipping.The seller forgot to add a declaration and I had to pay additional $40 as customs duty.That unfortunately raised it to 140. Since I could not return it on the quality count,I decided to keep it. May be its bit expensive,due to a pardonable human error. It's Sharp and in almost new condition.Happy that it was not a lemon !!!

Can you suggest a macro extension tube for this ? I use the Fotodiox MD adapter on my gh2. I find the 1:4 macro bit restrictive. Can I go a little closer ? Now the closest distance between the lens front to object in sharp focus is about 38 inches. (Object area covered is 3.5" (W) X 2" H. I did not find any discussion on this subject about this lens. I thought I will ask you. Specifications,brand name...anything. Thanks in advance.

@sammy @LaserGuidedTaco @daisuke do all of you guys tried to mount it on GH2 camera?

I just got the Minolta MD version of this lens on eBay (already had some Rokkors and an adapter) and I had a similar problem on my G6 with an adapter ring. I couldn't focus on anything closer than about 35ft (10m) except at 200mm where the lens lets you use the whole focus range in the Macro mode. I read the user manual and this focus range seems to be available only at 200m by design. But for some reason, at least with my MC/MD adapter, it seems to be necessary with m4/3 to focus on anything reasonably close.

Also, it was nowhere near parfocal - at 200mm it focused to infinity at around the 2.5m mark :/, and at 28mm it just barely focused on trees across the street at the infinity symbol.

So I took the thing apart to see what I could learn, and I made some serious improvements with only basic modifications:

• If you remove the four screws around the inner barrel (with the focal length markings and curves on it), rotate it 90 degrees so the focal length markings are on top by the aperture dot instead of on the side (curves are on right side now) and replace the screws, then you can use the whole range of focus at any focal length throughout the zoom range. Suddenly I could focus as close at 6ft away!

• I slid the inner barrel down and took the lens mount off and my copy seems to have a crooked, mis-seated metal ring inside that seems like it was screwed on cross-threaded and won't budge now. But when I put it back together, I tried to at least set everything up and screw it back in so it was level rather than tilted with the cooked ring, and that seems to have made the lens nearly parfocal, as advertised.

  • careful if you do this - screws are small and have weird oval washers the likes of which I've never seen before and are a little annoying to put back in. Short screws in photo hold the lens mount assembly on, long ones hole the inner barrel in place.

So now its a useful lens. Wondering if my MD adapter's distance from the sensor is a little off though, which would also explain why my Rokkors have a longer minimum focus distance than I thought they should…