@lolo: No, Shutter-Speed makes no sense. Because you can test it.
In 720p Mode, i do this: (All in 720p50, and all in manual Movie Mode)
Mode: M Shutter-Speed: 1/50 Aperture: 1:1.7 ISO: 12800
And then this: Mode: P Shutter-Speed: (Auto) Aperture: (Auto) ISO: 12800 Overexposure +3 (It's only get one stop brighter)
In the second thing, its get brighter. WRONG: But the Shutterspeed is exactly 1/25 sec, because when you go frame-by-frame, you see in 720p50, every frame is doubled (1/25 and 50p), this means 25 pictures per second.
Corrected: But the Shutterspeed is exactly 1/50 sec, because when you go frame-by-frame, no frame is doubled, there really 50 Frames. Shutter Speed can not be longer than 1/50 sec.
An in Mode S is the only mode, which goes higher than 1/50 (and ISO 25600), in mode M you can get even higher to 1/2... but not to ISO 25600. Believe me. I'm good in such things.
What I like, is the combo of Driftwood high bit rate and high iso, I'm not finding the banding I use to get in gradations in the shadows. Let's see a true 25,600 video!
So, I haven't found out yet, but are you guys raising the contrast value? I'm use to standard shooting with everything set -2. You need to turn NR -2, but Contrast? Isn't Saturation a non issue in B&W regarding the settings?
@all, I hope this will not over heat the sensor since we have unlocked it. Will know soon enough if thats the case. I did hear a fact that grain is caused by heated up sensor.
@chrimsbroome, I don't know if this is the case with the Panasonics or not, but I have heard that the various Canons seem to get noisier/graininer after long periods of use due to the sensor heating up. If I recall one of the "pro" guys (Hurlbut maybe) reported keeping multiple bodies on set and deliberately cycling through them to keep the noise to a minimum.
The sensor is putting out an analog voltage. At high ISOs, a amplifier boosts the minute signal into the range we want. The A/D circuit converts that to out 8 bit file. Anytime you raise the "volume" on an analog signal, you amplify the natural base noise. The higher you boost the image, the more you boost the noise. I doubt it is caused by temp. At least in this case.
Somewhere, i think on 43rumors showed the GH-2 sensor block and described why Panasonic has far less heat than Canon.
@mpgxsvcd: I noticed you do a lot of indoor sports/slo-mo. I shoot gymnastics and was wondering if you could share your current patch for the lates ptool (hopefully one that includes the time lapse mode as well.)
A lot of noise is ultimately related to temperature (in fact it's often called thermal noise and is usually a limit) whether in the amplifier or the sensor. In audio the thermal noise limit is around -129dB for a simple resistive source and you are right thatthe same sort of thing is happening here with higher gain - the amplifier is adding some of the noise to the image. The sensor does produce some thermal noise too, and you can reduce this by taking down the sensor temperature. Some telescope sensors do just that, with a Peltier element to bring down the temperature and reduce the thermal noise, and using dark frame subtraction to deal with other sensor noise which happens when you use long exposures. This is a good article about the various noise sources in images: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_noise
@Oedipax & Mark_the_Harp, well there was some drawing that showed how Panasonic addressed the noise and it GH2 out performed the Canon. Through the ISO removable patch is defiantly a better option in Night Photography and Video as some of us have tested. Good for shooting those spooky, horror films. Student Directors will have use for it. Hopefully there will be some other Easter egg hidden features ready to be unlocked.
@Mark_the_Harp thanks you! I have make a short video in ISO5000 with the great photograph Richard Bellia with his friend. They talk about a french wine with a well done name fucks@rkozy. Sorry no subtitle.
With this new ptool and cbrandin's 44M patch with ISO limit removed, I get immediate failures in Aperture mode with ETC on while shooting in bright daytime conditions at 160 ISO pegged @ 720P60. The error is the generic cannot write message.
Starting new, then I flashed it with the 44M patch again with the only difference being that the stock ISO limit was maintained, as I wanted to see if the ISO limit removal was contributing to my crashes... and now ETC mode works fine. The really odd part about this is it there are options to go to ISO above the stock ones almost as if the ISO limit is still removed. They are also selectable. Am I doing something wrong I wonder?
@lolo I tested with Driftwood's Aquarius 2 settings (except with the AGC settings I discuss in the GH2 Audio Hacks thread) using a Canon EF-S 10-22mm at f3.5.
Performance was stable all the way from ISO 160 to ISO 12,800 at both 24H and SH settings in black and white. Performance was also stable through the range with EX 24H. Performance was stable all the way from ISO 160 to ISO 12,800 at 24H settings in Smooth and Nostalgic.
That's the extent of my testing so far.
@mudmojo I tested EX 24H without problem but didn't test EX SH yet. I'll let you know if that changes things.
I'm trying to hack the GH2 to shoot PAL. I followed the steps. When the file is on my card and I put it into the GH2 and press play, I don't see the hourglass... Help please...tx....
@greeches with that music I am actually laughing at this video. Its ridiculous. @Bogie read the thread - its public. Watch out before Vitaliy goes all Back To The Future on you!
Vitaliy, do you think the Panasonic engineers follow this stuff? I mean, they must be a little proud that what they designed, can do so much more then Panasonic spec'd? I wonder if they even knew that this camera could shoot pretty cool 12,800 ISO B&W @ 176mbs? I wish we knew who they were to thank them. I have my hacked GH-1, my GH-2 and even if we are a year away, I will definitely be buying the GH-3.
And, it goes without saying, I hope you are proud of what you have opened up for all of us.