Really interested in this camera. Will any Super 16 lenses cover the sensor?
Whatever lenses cover a GH4, would cover the E1 as well.
Which means in practice very few S16 would, but a rare few would.
I know, but in choosing between this or the Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera which has a Super 16 sensor (though 1080 as opposed to Z1 going to 4K). This camera is much cheaper though
Go for the BMPCC or Micro if you're going to be substantially grading your footage in post.
Otherwise I'd say the E1 would be a better value buy.
But if your budget is big enough for a Micro, perhaps also consider the Panasonic G80/G85? As that is likely where I'd go if in your shoes.
@Vitaliy_Kíelev $299 from Cfreak link , $249 from IronFilm link: White Gìft crazy is $50 more? Are they different?
Nah, the boxing is just a little different for the "Gift" version.
@digger. MFT adapters I have are C mount, Nikon F, Nikon F tilt & Nikon G. I don't have any PL glass, so no PL adapter. PL glass would defeat the point of this camera!
Wonder if I'll one day have PL lenses! Never say never.
Drone? The camera weighs ca. 200g batt, no lens. IDK, but, B&H says buy an expensive drone from them to fly it, ha ha ha...
That is somewhat of an overkill suggestion from B&H, probably not simply trying to upsell as just cover their ass when giving a recommendation so that it wouldn't be too little.
@CFreak Relating experiences is a great benefit of the internet. But some experiences just reflect user confusion and it is important for viewers to know that.
I am also relating my experience with the camera. And I never used the WiFi app until about four weeks after shooting extensively using manual shutter. You were evidently confused about settings in the camera, as you were about believing you could use bluetooth to get live view. The confusion is understandable as there is no decent manual, and poor tech support. It is thus especially important to have accurate information posted on web sites by users.
An excellent feature of the camera is precisely how easy it is to set shutter speed, aperture, ISO and WB as either auto or manual individually. Easier than any camera I have used. And it is not necessary to use the app to make any settings.
Let me describe how key shooting settings are made:
You press the 'menu' button and you get on screen icons for shutter, iris, ISO, WB and even focus mode. And one icon is for deep diving into the detailed settings menu.
You just select one of the icons (say, shutter) and then choose from a drop-down menu either A (for auto) or the exact shutter speed you want, including the rarely-seen 1/48 (in other cameras) for 24P shooting. Then you can choose the iris icon, say, selecting A or a specific aperture setting, go on to WB and ISO, etc, etc. Then press the menu button again and the "quick" menu disappears. Simple, easy, effective.
@markr041 I had updated the FW fro, 0.21 (shipped FW) to 0.30 via the micro SD card. With 20 years experience in both analog and digital I am not confused about setting a shutter in fractions of second or in a degree angle setting. There was no confusion on my end, just on how the camera reacted while 1/48th of second was visible on the bottom of the screen, the camera having accepted the input I gave it.
Yes, without a manual, I hooked up the app via BT and Wifi simultaneously (more is better right?) and was surprised how limiting the app was. It was not what you had described, so I looked for their support which was non-existant, other than Facebook. I was pleasantly surprised, that they actually responded, that I had to cancel the BT connection to get the live view going. Then the app was rich and full of features. Again I was pleasantly surprised. So much so that I will be keeping the camera.
I will continue to relate my experience with the camera anyway I choose, if there are any bugs in the firmware, I will relate that. This is an open forum.
If you are being compensated by Zcam in any way, have any affiliation with Zcam other than being an end user, having purchased the camera with your own funds, please identify that for transparency and clarity for the rest of us, thank you.
Anyone knows if the HDMI output is 8 or 10 bit? For me only reason to buy it is having external recording with the video assist, but if the output is only 8 bit and the DR is 10 stops.. no way to mix it with BM Micro footage.
Forums are open. That's why they are filled with misinformation or confusing information as well as correct information. Sorting between them often invokes defensive posts from those whose provision of misinformation or just confusion is called out.
If I have said anything incorrect about the camera, correct it!
The question on HDMI output is a good one. How does one tell? My Atomos recorder always records 10bit whatever it is fed so it is useless for knowing what it is reading. I'll check if someone has a method for getting the info. What we know is HDMI out is 1080 and clean.
hi markr401, I did not see any lense that I own woud do auto in the list provided. Is the list confirmed? My regular use is Pan 12-35 mmm that is not in the list.
Hi everybody, i've just bought a E1 (there's a nice discount in France actually). I would like to know your settings for a "flat" and cinematic video (color grading in post)? Thanks
I do not think the lens list is complete. I have the 12-35mm f2.8 and I can check how it works.
If you shoot Zlog you will have a flat image for grading in post.
Even though the GH4 did 10bit output, I'd be very very very surprised if the E1 also did that!
But if it does... holy molly crap, I might even need to half consider then buying a secondhand original Atomos Shogun?!?! :-o
But I doubt it does 10bit.... oh hang on, does it even output 4K, or only 1080?
Anyway, you can record with an external recorder then dig into the file to see if it is true 10bit or just padded 8bit.
@IronFilm As I said it outputs 1080, not 4K. How can we tell whether the file from the 10bit recording is padded 8 bit or true 10bit?
@tinbeo I am pleased to report that the Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 lens has full functionality on the Z. Both continuous auto focus and push to focus work. And so does the OIS. Indeed, you can choose between normal stabilization and only-vertical stabilization (for panning). You can adjust the aperture in the quick menu. Auto shutter and auto ISO also work of course.
So the list of compatible lenses on the Z site is not comprehensive.
Yes @markr041, I'm wondering too how can we understand iff it outputs 8 or 10 bits if we record with a 10 bit recorder. Someone knows how for sure!
If you have a Mac or Linux, you can use a combo of ffmpeg and xxd to check:
It doesn't really matter though if it is only outputting HD
@mảkr041
Could you share color match setting of gh4 and this E1 camera, shown on your posted video.
Thank you.
@IronFilm not true for me.. I need a small camera to integrate my 2 BM Micro footage, which are HD.
@tinbeo Both the GH4 and the E1 were set for their default, "Standard" color - not log or Zlog - and at the default color settings (sharpness, contrast, tint, saturation, NR, etc.). Auto WB and ISO were used for both, shutter set at 1/60th, and then the apertures as indicated in the video
@eatstoomuchjam thanks for the suggestion! So now the question is: does anybody have a Z camera e1 footage externally recorded at 10 bit and is so kind to share it?
does anybody have a Z camera e1 footage externally recorded at 10 bit and is so kind to share it?
I am super ultra doubtful it would be 10bit 1080 (and I kinda don't care if it isn't 4K...).
Might test it with my Atomos recorder once my E1 arrives.
@IronFilm thanks, we'll wait for your response!
@markr041 What is the “split duration “ for, shown 5,10,20,30 min in setting Record Mode?
Can this camera do HDMI out while recording like gh4?
No answer for my question so I will try to set the record next time I am in real xxx -;) with my new baby
@mark041 Do you or anyone else know if I can program any button other than the power button to act as the power button? Would be great if I could turn on the camera using the shutter button or something.
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