Can anyone explain how to get this camera to output at 24 or 30p to an external recorder (Shogun)? I can't seem to record anything by 59.94 Thanks
Im very very surprised, this camera its awesome and for that price better than the GH2 in her moment.
I'm working as audio technician on a web series shooted primarily with a Sony Fs7 and a Sony FE PZ 28-135mm f/4 G.
While the crew was relaxing I've mounted that monster lens on my a5100 just to try the "touch to focus" feature on it.
This is how it works using Normal speed on focus setting. In the video there are some red flashes whenever I've touched on another target point.
It's the most unscientific test ever done, but IMHO is another sign of the great capability of the camera autofocus.
Hi all, this is a music videoclip I shot in July at the wonderful Parco degli Acquedotti in Rome, Italy. I've used a Sony a5100 at 50fps, Xavc s, mounted on a Sturdy Fly Sturdycam, a Merlin-like stabilizer, with the kit zoom 16-50 and a cheap polarizing filter on it. The scene with the juggler was shot using the amazing Sony SEL 50F18 on a monopod. All edits done in FCPX and all grading done with Color Finale. After the correction done to match the exposure (shooting spanned from 8AM to 7PM) I've used a light grade on everything with a layer grade. I've found really useful, in a couple of shots, the vectors to make the skin of the girl less reflective. This is it:
Wonderful, we'll done. What was the longest take you had? Did you encounter any overheating?
Thanks, the longest take was almost three minutes, not more. That day was really hot, end of July, and I had brought along some battery powered fans, to control overheating, but used once just for prevention. I switched off the camera as often as I could, also. I had more difficulties indoor, a few days ago, shooting on tripod with the same lens. Maybe because the camera was always on and connected, via HDMI, to external monitor, who knows...
I've had some overheating on this camera, recently, so now I'm attempting some tricks to avoid this issue. I've glued a simple heatsink with a double-sided tape on the back of the camera. I only have to be careful to avoid to close the screen while the heatsink is on the camera...
Proper two sided tape made for such applications is not less efficient, as here most heat resistance comes from lack of proper contact of chip with body and body itself.
I've to do more tests, but for now it seems to work. The tape is a generic doble-sided, not a specific one. I've to test it on longer shoot with AF on, it seems to be the worst scenario for the overheating issue...
So far it seems to work a little better with the heatsink, not a stunning performance, but until now I could not shoot more than 20 minutes with 30° Celsius in the room as yesterday, when I've shot for more than 30 minutes, with stop and go, but without the necessity to shut off the camera from a take and the other. I'll try to use another spare heatsink to dissipate the first one, just fitting each one's indentation.
Sorry for this noob question, Can i have 10bit 4:4:4 if i use the a5100 with exemple atomos ninja star ?
As far as I know output is 422 8 bit 1080p
@amateur The wrapper would be 10 bit 4:4:4, but the actual data that is recorded would be no better than 8 bit 4:2:2. Its like those bags of potato chips you get where the bag is less than half full when you open it. Lots of extra room, but not necessary!
Sony Alpha a5100 Mirrorless Digital Camera with 16-50mm Lens for $398
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