So somehow this has not only to do with the adapter but also the glass of the lens? I'm trying to understand this, can someone explain this?
It is mostly due to reflections from the lens closest to the sensor. If coating is very good and lens is further from adapter glass it is better.
Leica to Fuji is impossible to do (too close) - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
I was wondering if this will work with my BMCC EF mount? and EF lenses?
Of course no.
Is it correct, that a lens like this:
could not change aperture while using the adapter for m43 to EOS?
Hi everyone! just guessing, why not a m43 to m43 rj speedbooster? since most of us have eos, k, m42, etc... it would be much useful, since we all probably have m43 adapters for all the lenses... it's not possible technically? thank you so much for your help @Vitaliy_Kiselev
@aldolega I'm surprised by that you should post examples. At its core it is an offshoot problem of all digital cameras film did not reflect light back but those shiny sensors do. Stay away from filters if your using them and can do without. If this is not due to pointing directly at light sources and/or high fstops maybe you just got a lemon and should contact manufacturer. I am using old Olympus lenses and mine does it only when pointing it directly at the sun and is compounded the higher the fstop.
EOS Lens Turbo should really have an own aperture ring, as otherwise using eos lenses is not much fun with their electronic aperture.
Only electronic adapters can change canon lenses aperture :-)
EOS passive adapter main role is to use pure manual lenses with EF mount and also use small intermediate adapters to mount other lenses.
My RJ Lens Turbo rattles when shaking. I think the lens is loose. Any advice?
Look some early posts about adjusting infinity. You need to fix the lens group, I think.
I'm going to buy this adapter for using it with Sigma 18-35/1.8 on Panasonic G7. As I understand, the best choice is nikon version of the lens and adapter because of aperture control. Should I buy tripod mount? I don't know, do I need it for using with this lens.. It's pretty heavy. Any advice?
Why not? The Sigma 18-35/1.8 is not a small lens, so if you are using a tripod in the future it's better to use the tripod collar, and you can easily not use it by just removing it from the adapter. Also it's a little extra cost if you combine, if you order it later it will cost you USD 24.
Experimenting with my new MD-to-FujiX-Turbo during the last weeks - love it!
I can confirm a pretty big blurry blue spot on one of my lenses, a Takumar 28/3.5 via M42-MD-adapter.
Will test some more with an old MD 28/2.0 later and report with images if you guys like.
I have a question about my Lens Turbo MD to Fuji X mount:
The aperture does not work anymore as soon as I mount the lens on the adapter. Looks like this little pin on the lens is moved so that the aperture ring of it can be moved but has no effect anymore.
I know this behavior with FD lenses where adapters usually have some kind of lock to make the aperture ring fully work.
How can I achieve this on the Lens Turbo 2?
Are you talking about a pin that sticks out, and can be pushed it to activate manual control of the aperture? Or are you talking about an actual lever that moves the aperture when you move it? If you meant the first one, there are a few ways you could rig it to stay "active". Google it, lots of info available, but mainly its either taking the rear plate off the lens if possible and rigging up something to hold the pin in the active position, or putting something over the pin on the outside to keep it depressed.
Thank you Joe! The longer pin is the one which is pushed or better said: rotated by the Lens Turbo and taking away manual control of the aperture by the aperture ring. The funny thing is that my other 10€-adapter leaves the pin alone. So I ask myself why the lens turbo which is specialized on mounting an MD lens on a modern mount does the job not right?
Could this be a construction mistake or are there any argument for this "feature" or lack of it? Can't be on purpose to take away aperture control, right?
@hilburger Can you mount the adapter in such a way that the pin on the lens doesnt catch? I think I have a dumb MD to MFT adapter that catches the pin of my MD lens, but the just allows aperture control of the lens via the adapter's ring. This is an auto lens, so maybe its different?
The Minolta Aperture "Pin" also catches with my original Metabones SpeedBooster. I clip off 1mm and its fine. Lenses still work on Minolta Bodys. Hope this helps.
Thank YouTube guys! I'll try it later at home.
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