@c3hammer Hey Pete, Thanks for the reply! Checked all my settings and tried to replicate problem to post a video. Thanks for confirming that you don't have that problem. It turns out I was hitting the function lever and changing the aperture. It was me and not the camera. I also mapped preview to the wifi button and now I can preview what the photo will look like.

Manual focus?

I got the G6 as an upgrade for the GH1 and I think it is a great update. Some things I do not like :

1. Position of the video record button, my finger always has to search for it, it is very hard to feel where it is. I now use most the shutter button in movie mode, but also that is not ideal because i have to press deep. The video button on the GH1 was so much better (a little same with the AEF/AEL button, easy to feel on GH1, hard on the G6)

2. Timelapse and electronic shutter is fantastic. But it is very hard to stop it. FN4 button does not seem to work, I normally switch off the camera, and must cancel timelapse mode when switch on again. Do not switch the control dial before the timelapse mode is cancelled, because then you may get a back screen and you may wonder why. Also it would be nice if the timelapse mode could be assigned to a FN-button.

3. The biggest problem with the G6 is the viewfinder. It is not sharp until i press record video! Even after pressing AEL/AEF lock button i do not have a sharp view and it is hard to tell if the subject is in focus. But when I press record it sharpens, but also the color changes. I like to see the sharp image and the actual colors before i press record. Is this done to save battery? I really do not like this, on the GH1 I did not have this issue.

4. When I start up the camera and try to record a video fast, i get a 'please wait' warning, sometimes 2 or 3 times! Very frustrating when you just missed the moment. My GH1 always got slower after startup when my 8GB class 10 got half full. I think it has to do with the complex AVCHD directory structure which has to be read at startup. I now switched from AVCHD to MP4 and it seems to be much more responsive after start up!

5. Also a great upgrade from the GH1 is the ex-tele-conv function in Video. The only problem is to toggle fast between on and off for video. I have to press several buttons to switch it on or off, because the priority is for photo, for which this function is useless anyway. It would be great that with one press it could be switched on or off. Especially when I am in movie-mode, it makes no sense that still changing the ex-tele-conv for photo gets priority over video.

Still I am very happy with the G6 great camera for a nice price and this model is so much easier to find in shops here in Asia, where the GH3 is very hard to find. But I think it would be a even better camera with a few simple software updates.

Is there a way to keep the recording info, such as sound levels, displaying on the lcd continuously. I'm sick of it disappearing after one minute. And it is not practical for me to keep touching the record button every minute.

OK, I stand half corrected about the exposure in M mode. I originally answered thinking about video mode - using the toggle changes exposure live (my bad). In A mode and S mode again you can get exposure changes live using the toggle to change exposure settings. Now in M mode it can work 2 ways - if you have the kit lens on then it does not give you real exposure levels, however, if you put an old manual lens on and start changing the aperture manually you will see the LCD brightening and darkening in real-time. I use an old nifty 50mm lens on mine a lot of the time.

@Rivo_Kikkul in M mode with the kit lens is the only time that you cannot get live view. In A, S, and Video modes, using either the kit lens or a legacy lens, you get live view if you change the settings with the toggle lever. If your camera is not doing this then may be get it checked. And by the way - I also own a GH2.

The live exposure in M mode is quite annoying when taking photos often get totally different thing then what you see on the monitor or evf. Have to switch to Mvideo move which does have live exposure and then go back to M mode to take a photo. Cause M alway does auto exposure and give you a false images.

Timelapse is really cool to have it in camera but annoyingly its multi button menu to stop it as you need to hit fn4 and then choose stop and if you have allot of fast exposure like half a second its impossible to stop it with that method and just need to force stop it by shutting down the camera.

Also notice when I did a sunset time-lapse the time-lapse flickers and see it not gradually get dark but jumps around while having it on full manual not sure if anyone else notice that.

@chungdha mine doesn't do this, sounds like a fault with battery

Don't know why but am using original batteries so, its not like 3rd party battery fault. Plus it should be something inside the camera so you can only replace it at certain point so battery can have longer life span. But for what I was shooting totally was annoying as I had to shoot a short theatre play and wanted to replace battery before it to have enough power but now made that I had to change battery in the middle instead.

Did you check your settings? There's different rates to choose from.

Hey! It's fixed!! What happened was the sensor overheated because I was shooting during the mid-day of a super sunny day at 1.7 aperture! But after 4 days my burst rate is at the higest speed again!! So be careful guys when the sun is on the top of the sky and there is high luminosity, because at 1.7 aperture and in manual mode the sensor could become overheated.

@dishe the same thing happens to me with WMP. The files are recognized fine in PP tho.