Wides are most critical for flange distance, but it could also be that your Tokina is a bit off in itself – they have quite some sample variation. But with all the adapters you use I'd check flange distance first.
Here is a piece i'm working on using a G6 with a RJ speed booster (notice the blue dot?) and samyang VDSLR lenses and a Takumar smc 50mm. I plan to get the samyang 35mm asap to replace the Tak because I have intense gold color shift :/ (almost corrected in this wip render)
Overall the RJ has great sharpness but if you use it at f14-f22 you will likely have this blue dot issue. Use ND's when possible to keep the aperture open!
With a small sensor you'll loose resolution to diffraction anyway. If the blue dot is only seen after f11, it's kind of a non-issue to me!
Will there be a BMPCC Version of the Lens Turbo? Would be great to have an alternative for the expensive metabones bmpcc speedbooster...
Will there be a BMPCC Version of the Lens Turbo?
I do not know for now, may be. It is just useful to understand that whole BMPCC sales are much smaller than sales even of single m43 or E mount cameras.
Will there be a BMPCC Version of the Lens Turbo?
I do not know for now, may be. It is just useful to understand that whole BMPCC sales are much smaller than sales even of single m43 or E mount cameras.
ICProductions - Hmmmm, that center focus issue is discouraging. Your Umphrey's MeGee shots look good, though.
I like mine a lot but I can't seem to get it to work with my Nikon 50mm or 18mm, I think because of a protruding piece of metal on those lenses.
@ICProductions any problems in the optical path will become more pronounced the wider your lenses are. That means there is more tolerance in the longer focal length lenses.
I think if you can adjust the RJ for the 11mm end of your Tokina, wide open, the rest of your lenses will still work fine. The RJ appears to be introducing a new problem.
@kellar42. My 24mm Nikon AIS didn't work because of a protrusion too. I filed it down and its working now. If you wish to do it. Do it at your own risk. Just make sure you have the back lens and all other areas around the protrusion covered. I used lens tissue to cover the areas.
Will there be minolta md version?
Will there be minolta md version?
As far as I know answer is positive for Minolta SR mount.
That sounds good, will you pm me when the Minolta mount sr/mc/md adapter is out? I will buy that adapter.
Sorry the silly question, but RJ stands for what? Is Mitakon better than this rj?
RJ is initials of the firm founder :-) As for Mitakon - it is worse as I know.
Rj speed booster & G6... look at this swiriling bokeh! Lenses : samyang 85t1.5, 14t3.1 and takumar smc 50 f1.4
Leica R to m43 and Pentax PK to m43 RJ adapters are available
Terms are all same.
So, Rj and Mitakon are similar, the first better in corner but some blue dot issue in certain situations, the second better center but worst at corners.
The last question: both of them can't let you adjust aperture, right? Cause i've a lens without aperture ring, and would like to know if i can control from this adapter or from cameera directly (i hope but i don't think so..)
So, Rj and Mitakon are similar, the first better in corner but some blue dot issue in certain situations, the second better center but worst at corners.
It is topic about RJ, for Mitakon I suggest to ask in corresponding topic, we have one. RJ is better than Mitakon in all regards as far as I remember.
The last question: both of them can't let you adjust aperture, right? Cause i've a lens without aperture ring, and would like to know if i can control from this adapter or from cameera directly (i hope but i don't think so..)
It depend on the specific adapter. Nikon G has aperture ring. FD has similar thing with open-close limit positions.
Sorry Vitaliy, i'm trying to decide. I've with me a Nikon G lens as the Sigma 30mm 1.4 is. A very good lens, but it does not have aperture ring. With RJ nikon G adapter can i control aperture without problems? What about infinity focus? Would like to have this combo with omd for ibis, could be a good idea? Also, on Nikon G adapter can i mount Nikon F (Ai-Ais) lens? And the last thing: is the blue dot issue appearing at fast values (1.4) or darker (about f11, for exemple) of F? For the final price and to order, have i to send you pm? Thanks.
With RJ nikon G adapter can i control aperture without problems?
yes
What about infinity focus?
Present :-)
Would like to have this combo with omd for ibis, could be a good idea?
You need to ask OMD owners how it works with wide and tele adapters. But I think that you just set focus length in menu and it works, at least on Pentax it is so.
Also, on Nikon G adapter can i mount Nikon F (Ai-Ais) lens?
Yes, of course. Both are Nikon F mount.
And the last thing: is the blue dot issue appearing at fast values (1.4) or darker (about f11, for exemple) of F?
Check slightly above, users made tests.
For the final price and to order, have i to send you pm? Thanks.
Yes. Btw, price is already final.
"Showing the benefits of the extra stop of light, the reason I purchased the RJ Lens Turbo focal reducer (getting the lens to be a ~35mm is not important, I have other lenses to cover that length). The Nikon 50mm AIS is 'usable' at f1.4, stopping down to f2 makes a big difference in spherical aberration (and, not shown in this test, coma). The focal reducer, though perhaps degrading the image (acceptably or otherwise) at smaller f-numbers, works to make this lens (as well as any lens that improves immediately from stopping down one stop, including a couple of other lenses that I already own, but this was the most important one for me in deciding to purchase the focal reducer) much more usable at a light transmission of 'f1.4'. Overall, early in my ownership of this affordable 'alternative' to the Metabones Speedbooster, I'm happy that I made the purchase.
I did have to make a slight adjustment to my lens, sanding down a few millimetres of a protruding piece of metal, but it was no big deal.
Shot on a GH2 (Moon T7) adjusting camera placement to keep framing the same, and as stated above, stopping down one stop with the RJ Lens Turbo to keep the exposure the same. Focus (using focus-assist) is on "What Can We Learn From Traditional Societies?" Voigtlander F-Mount to M43 is the first shot, follwed by the RJ Lens Turbo F/G to M43 shot.
When I purchase the Sigma 10-20mm (or Tokina 11-16) I will do a wide angle test (getting these lenses to 7-8mm would be the reason to use them on the focal reducer). But for the price, and if you already own a lens where the benefit of one stop makes a big difference such as the 50mm f1.4 AIS, I would already recommend this reducer."
The reducer arrived in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, from China (with tracking, including with Canada Post for the last leg) within the 2-3 weeks stated (18 days)
Here are two jpgs (from tiff screenshots) of a quick and dirty test. I'd like to know if I'm doing something wrong, but there appears to be an increase in the quality of basically everything with the RJ Lens Turbo. Both shots are wide open, the two changes between the shots was about 1ft (30cm) back with the Voigtlander for framing, and shutter angle 180° for the RJ, 360° for the Viogtlander. Could the shutter angle be making this much of a difference! BMPCC Vivitar 28mm f2.8 Wide Angle MC Nikon Ai RJ Lens Turbo adapter (making the lens approximately a 20mm f2) Voigtlander F-M43 adapter
@inukhiphop Why don't you add light to the non booster test to remove all the variables. It doesn't make much sense to compare items if you have any sort of variable.
@vicharris There will be no no-variable test, wide open the two setups are different. But I tried as good as I could to minimize but make light one of the variables as you suggested. Framing variable also the same. Made for similar results, as far as I can tell.
Edit: Added Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 wide open for a reference (clearly from a different time in technological history)
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