WOW, the G6 has already fallen under $500! Very soon it is going to be cheaper than the GH2 ever was to buy new.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6/

@Vitaliy_Kiselev sorry, not meaning it to be "deal topic" but rather making what I think is an interesting and broader point that the successor to the GH2 (the G6) has now reached parity with the cheapest price the GH2 was ever sold at! (and I expect it can't be that far away that the G6 will be cheaper than the GH2 was ever sold at for new)

@Dailyfilmfix I have no issues with video or stills over wifi. it works well and streams continuously even when recording. i also have control over all the settings on the camera too. I use android though..

DailyFilmFix. That's interesting. Did not know it was best to shoot the moon with lens being close to closed (f22).

That's a very cool lens. What adapter are using for it to work on the G6/M43 camera? After seeing that, I'm thinking of getting one as they can be obtained quite cheaply. Is focal length equivalent to 270mm once on an M43?

Only issue is that it's not very fast.

Since I bought the G6 in June I've tried shooting different light settings (mostly low light and different hours outside) and it produces eye catching results. Recently I filmed some Christmas decorations in low light (only source being candles) and the noise is so fine, that it's barely even noticable, or it doesn't detract from the subject. It also is a very satisfying still camera. It has been a joy to use as a first camera and I can't wait to expand my lens collection (currently I own a Oly 45mm and a Olympus OM 28mm 3.5, which is a magnificent lens for its price range)

@DailyFilmFix Curious about what you were seeing with the G6 + iPad setup. By no data do you mean no shutter, WB, ISO, etc information? I've been using mine with an iPhone and I've been able to see and tweak the settings. Are you still having issues with it?

Can't remember off hand if more advanced info like histogram or audio meters made it to the phone or not.

Edit to clarify: I see a live view video with a slight delay along with a listing of the basic settings (SS, ISO, WB, etc) that I can tap into to change.

Just found this test of the G6 on Vimeo:

"Lumix G6 simple video test ISO: 3200,1600(night shooting) ,160(morning shootig) Rokkor (minolta) manuel 58mm f1.4 Lumix 14-42 kit lens"

So I used the G6 in combination with the GH2 for a shoot over the weekend. I haven't had time to start putting the footage into the editor, but reviewing the files side by side seemed like there would be no problems. I primarily used the G6 for 60P shots to be used as slow-mo parts. I would have used it for the whole shoot had there been HDMI out while recording.. (hopefully panny is reading..)

It was used on a jib and pushed through a tunnel on a dolly for an effect so the only possible way to monitor was via the wi-fi. It worked well enough for framing but the streaming compression was somewhat jerky and full of compression artifacts so I feel that focusing via the wifi would be poor. Luckily the speed wasn't too fast and the AFC focus worked decently enough. I still want HDMI out while recording. I use that constantly with the GH2!

I can't post any clips yet as I'm under agreement not to release anything until the work is done and released, but the picture looks great, just like the GH2 but slightly more sharp and less blocking in the low tones.

I used STD on both cameras, GH2 all -2 and the G6 all -5. Honestly there isn't a whole lot of difference besides what differences the camera picture already has. Since this is a music video, there will be a bunch of color corrections done anyway so the director and I didn't worry about it too much.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, but once I get the footage into the editor tonight, I can say more about the match.

@svart thank you for the input. much appreciated. I use std almost all the time too unless I want something really different. "Man, if the G6 had live view out of the HDMI during recording, I would sell my gh2 and get another G6 with a quickness." I totally agree with that. if I use only one cam, I mostly use G6 nowadays.

@Grimor, I don't think the IA thing works as you expect. For correct exposure, you can do a few things. I'll list them from most proper to least proper:

1. Expose to protect the highlights. Find the brightest place in your frame, use the center exposure [ . ] brackets and expose that point at around +2 or find where it's just under full white using the histogram. Then use fill light to bring the dark areas of the frame up to a reasonable contrast.

2. Expose the most important part of the frame, the talent. Find the talent's face and use the center exposure brackets [ . ] to expose for 0 exposure on the face. Let the shadows be black and the highlights blow out. Most people don't notice if the highlights are blown if the talent does a good job at keeping them entertained or if the story and framing is good.

3. Overall exposure. Sometimes you can't do a center exposure, like in very wide outdoor scenes. Use the overall exposure [ ] brackets to meter the whole scene to around 0 or +1 but make sure every other outdoor scene meters the same, whatever you choose.

That's the easiest way to do it with these cameras.

@rickgude gonna be of topic but could you post some pics of the dolly so we can have an idea what you built. cause G6 has proven itself many times. thanks.