If anyone is interested in audio on the GH3 - did a little test of various mics and also compared the GH3 gain vs JuicedLink which I love (really good preamp for the price).

My first wedding video for some good friends. GH3 and GH2 used 14 - 140 Voigtlander 25mm (Love this lens, My favorite by far) Filmed and edited by myself

Ok this is going to sound dumb most likely. I am just very busy lately and I am trying to find some quick answers. I currently shoot with a GH2 (hacked). Is the GH3 going to get hacks? or is it better out of the box than my hacked GH2? only reason I ask is because I love the idea of 60p 1080 slow-mo and from what I have read slightly better low light performance.

Honest answers appriciated!

Rob

The center part of the AF/AE lock should depress noticeably. Not much, but it does depress. The outer ring of course doesn't move in at all ... it should be solid to the touch.

Neil

I´m totally freak out! I can´t manage to get a proper shot in interior without flickering a lot. When a push rec, start a flicker party, no matter wich mov set I choose, no matter wich ss choose...in lcd or lvf evrything is more or less ok untill I hit rec and all start flickering. If I shoot exterior no problem, but in interior without light, only with the light from the vindow start flickering. Manual lenses, voiglander 25mm, manual focus, manual white balance....any idea? Noo! Even in the outside, the dark and uniform zones flick, less but flick....what is this?

Hey @fran that flicker is called RGP or random god punishment :P
Now, more seriously, there's also a GH3 issues thread you may want to look and post at =)

Haha! Thanks @maxr!! You are right, maybe I had so fine shootings with the GH2 that I have to pay with some punishment!! :-D There´s a bunch of issues out there! I giving it back to the seller, there were anoying things, like the EVF, I was unable to be confindent in focus...The sharpen affects it, if you put it down you only see a blured screen...we see what happens when they send it back...for photo is not a problem because you got good autofocus, but for pulling focus on video...uff....hard! Thanks for your help!

Very newbie question (just got my GH3, first DSLR):

When I shoot inside my house, with artificial light (the kitchen lamp) I get like strokes/light flickering/"flashing lights" all around my subject? <---- this is making me crazy.

(obviously shooting in Manual, not Auto mode) but I'm trying to learn Manual and if you guys could answer me this question, I'll appreciate it a lot!

Also, from what I've read, the first thing I have to do is set my "Standard" to -5 -5 -5 -5, because it will be easier later to grade?

And last question:

Do you guys shoot ALL Intra 72Mbp, or 24p/50Mbps? I can't find infos about whats the best!

Thanks a lot, thanks thanks thanks!

Thanks for the -2 -5 -numbers tips :) I'll set them now.

And yes, the "flickering" I get, is only indoors (at night/with no sunlight) with artificial lights. Approaching the light source/subject.

It must be a very stupid mistake, easy to solve from my part, I'm sure (since I just got started). But can't figure out what setting must I 'touch' in order to get rid of the flickering lights (which I also get/see in the in-built LCD screen of the cam.)

I didn't know the GH3 was "so sensible" (problematic) with skin tones or magentas, If I knew... I would have go for the GH2 and hack it. I really hope the GH3 will offer a hack at some point.

Thanks for the help! :) Really appreciate it!

@Flanders

I do love working with the GH3, and I came from shooting totally portraits ... stills ... and my last camera was a Nikon D3, an amazing tool. (I started 35+ years ago with medium-format film RB67 cameras.)

I've found that the GH3 does have some sort of skin-recognition thing going on, tries to modify the hues and contrast ... "soften" things I think ... and can go a bit "plasticene" as it's said around here. So, for stills (processed in Lightroom 5) I'll add a very small amount of "medium grain" to the image to get away from the over-smoothed native look of the GH3 ... and up the "vibrancy" ... and skin looks great. Quite real and normal.

In video, the settings I've listed above ... contrast probably -3 or -2, sharpness -3 to -5 (take your pick), color saturation between -3 to -1, sharpness maybe -3 or -4 will do pretty decent.

Nail the WB in shooting, probably tweaking the grid settings in the "adjust" section of the WB screen.

Do this, and the GH3 is quite a nice cam to shoot with ... there's been some gorgeous stuff shot with it. If using good settings for this camera, it grades quite well. It is NOT a GH2, and some of the people who've tried using settings that worked great for the GH3 have been very frustrated with it. Those that roll with what this can do that a GH2 can't ... and in the way a GH3 "works" ... have been mostly very pleased. As have I.

I go back to my beloved D3, or my wife's D600 ... and wow, there's no touch control on the rear LCD, how dumb is THAT? Just things like that. No, the GH3 isn't quite a D3 or D600 at stills ... but pretty darn close. Though the D600 does decent video files (I've worked a few through ... not bad stuff at all) the GH3 is a HECK of a lot handier to use in making those video files. Overall, comparing the GH3 to two very awesome pro-level image tools, it's pretty darn nice.

A Red? Ha ... no. Can a hacked GH2 do some things better? Yeah ... but ONLY hacked in video use. Shoot stills better? Um ... no. Not hardly.

Neil

Been to 24x30 inch prints ... portraits ... with the GH3. Understand, I came from medium-format film, using Mamiya RB67 Pro-S cameras, 6x7cm negative format, and even some 4x5 inch work. We had our own pro portrait printing lab up through 60" images for quite a few years, besides our studio ... primarily because we were so damn picky on exact color and contrast no lab wanted to work with us. For very long, at least. :) If I can't make a print I'm happy with, I won't have the camera. I've tried a bunch, of course.

I've been through several generations of digital cameras and this isn't a hobby ... it's how our entire family income is created. For again, over 35 years. And no, the GH3 isn't quite a D3 or D600 for stills ... but handled wisely, both in-cam and in post, none of our clients (who pay dearly for their images and expect something above the standard "faux" photographers out there) would ever be able to tell which camera the image came from without being asked to look for differences, which on a 24x30 inch print at a typical viewing distance of say, 3-4 feet (meter and a half ... ) one will have a great trouble discerning.

Absolute quality of the images? Yes, a fair amount of difference. Practical image quality differences? After working by intelligent practices, not so much.

@RatLabProductions @rNeil

"Current Hz Cycle of my area". Wow... As soon as I sent this post, I will type that in Google (i have no idea what your talking about) My shuterspeed was always "Auto" (I just figured out 5 minutes ago, that even shooting Manual, you still have to "active/set" your shutter speed "to manual") - What shutter speed would you recommend for indoors, with just the "house lights"? -- I'm afraid, because on Sunday I have my first "serious (1st) video shoot" (a model wants a videobook) and it's going to be indoors, in the bed/couch, so I really don't want that flickering to show.

Video example of flickering (10 seconds long - dont worry):

you can also see how the image at first has a "blue light" - and then it turns darker (by itself) Oh, and I always choose the "bulb" icon, when shooting indoors. Or the "K" icon when it's really dark (<-- i probably dont even undestand what Im doing here)

Any advice is highly appreciated. (in order to not f*ck up my 1st video shoot) - I will post the result on Sunday. And hand out beers for you too! (even if it has to be a beer-invitation-donation over PayPal) Much appreciated! :)