I'm building on of these from scratch at my internship right now. Fun stuff! (I may as well ask this here, as NOBODY on C5D Forum even answered my question at all . . . does anyone know of a dual-input monitor with either onionskin capability, or the ability to switch instantly from one input to another? For adjusting 3D Rigs?)

Something like it
http://cgi.ebay.com/Super-Premium-slim-mini-2x1-HDMI-Switch-V1-3b-1080P-PS3-/170561355954?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item27b63fc0b2

@B3Guy

There is a new product similar to the Atomos Ninja- made by Convergent Design, (the Grandfathers of HD Remote Recording) - forget its name: http://www.convergent-design.com/ (its on the main page).

Allows 2x HD-SDI + HDMI 1.4 output + a large screen where I am assuming that you can look at funky meters... (convergence... etc...)

@alcomposer
"Other than that- its a great use of (guessing) Bosch Extruded Profile! (or Item)... and simple... "

Are you talking about the first post? As far as I can judge (some time ago I was trying to figure it out), they are not using Bosch profiles, but other ones (can't remember if they are from China or S. Korea). However, I might be wrong.
My rig is made from Bosch profiles.

Well, I'm using Cineform's Remaster and their First Light, which does exactly that. I gotta say, it makes working with 3D footage much easier (it connects both clips within the CineForm codec, which also stores any applied corrections or effects along with the raw clip.)

Idiotic question I think but there goes,: if I mount two GH2 on this rig can I mount them so there is no left-right difference in alignment?

That would be my intention...

After effects>timewarp on highlight to match the time quantinization frames of base exposure>output as tiff> run through tone mapping app>exr to aftereffects?

Anybody see any new "reasonably priced" 3D Beam Splitter rigs?

Redrock has a cheap side-by-side solution, but won't work for my app. I'd need beam slitter.

Genus hurricane 3D at $8000 new and over $6500 used is a little much for me...

@David_Cole Price seems reasonable. Did you use another rig as benchmark?

I saw these for example online...

3DFilmfactory

3D Bullet Rig Handheld = $5,895
http://www.3dfilmfactory.com/index.p...d=71&Itemid=76

3D-BS INDIE RIG (beam-splitter), 25lbs = $3895


Aquavideo

Aero3D List Price $5895. NAB introductory price: $ 3995
http://www.aquavideo.com/press/AquaV...essrelease.pdf

The least expensive is Aero3D handheld rig at $3995 so far, if solid build quality...

There most certainly IS a way to align the initial sync of the two cameras. There are a number of stereo guys out there doing just that. I've exhaustively tested GH1s and 2's with MANUAL lenses using a power-up sync technique (essentially turning each camera on at exactly the same time from the same power source) and found consistently less than .02 ms of offset at the beginning of each test run and seldom more than .1 ms after 5 min. My cameras are very close in serial number - which may help when it comes to drift over time. Your mileage may vary. Details can be found in the 3D section here.

Umm.... I'm CEO of Next3D. We make live stereoscopic differential encoders for Turner Sports, among others. Differential encoders rely on high-coherence between the left and right eyes. We understand sync.

We've encoded plenty of content from LANC or power-up-sync rigs that have less phase error than tri-level sync-based rigs (REDONE being a worst offender). There is no question that rigs that do not have jam-sync will drift over time. Lucky, you can monitor the v-blank from the GH1 (just like the packet timing with a LANC-based rig) and determine when it is time to reset. .1ms after 5 min is VERY good, however, and will not result in any significant phase error. One truth that must be shared is that some cameras may not pair as well - as their oscillators may drift more rapidly. Unfortunately , there is no way to really tell except to gen-up a rig and try it with a sync tester (such as Peter Wimmer's excellent CRT-based tester software). Generally, you try to buy consecutive serial numbered cameras to minimize the risk.

I do agree that photo-strobe or clap-based sync methods are bunk. As much as a 1/2 frame of error can occur - which is a recipe for a headache, especially if there is motion parallel to the sensor.

One of the tremendous upsides to the Gh2 is the hack - especially the low-GOP work. As the H264 encoders in the cameras are (obviously) not aware of each other, they make independent decisions about motion coding. This can result in severe occlusion disparity with lots of parallel-to-the-sensor movement (especially when the object in motion is in negative parallax). With the low-GOP hacks, the latitude each camera has to make independent decisions is gated. This improves apparent motion in the encoded stereo material tremendously.

Take a look for yourself at this sample from my GH2 rig: I don't think you'll see any phase lag.

Regards.