Hey guys, just thought I'd share my recent customer service experience with BMD:
My BMPCC that I've had for about a month (huge thanks to @vicharris for helping to hook me up) had an extraordinary amount of stuck and dead pixels. I'm talking hundreds of them. Even visible in properly exposed daylight shooting at 800 ASA. I submitted a ticket on the BMD website, had a couple back and forth emails, sent them some demo footage showing the issue and Julian at BMD called me directly. We spoke on the phone briefly and he agreed that there was something wrong with the sensor and he expedited the RMA procedure for me. Now, about a week or so after submitting my RMA I have a new camera in hand that works perfectly (it actually arrived 2 days earlier than I expected).
As an early adopter of this camera, I was ready for a couple of bumps. If you want smooth and easy, wait for Generation 3 of a product. If you want to be on the leading edge, adopt early but remember that you are a essentially a tester!
I knew what I was getting into, so I am extremely impressed with BMD and how they handled this customer service issue. I'm a very happy customer now and I'm pretty sure I'll be sticking with BMD for a while to come.
Now it's time to play with RAW!
Has anyone had any experience with adapting SLR lenses to the BMPCC? Specifically I have a SMC Pentax-M 28mm 2.8 that's all manual and there are a couple of cheap K-Mount adapters on amazon.
I can confirm that something changed with the HDMI output with this latest firmware (1.5). I have the Aputure V-Converter A810 and with the BMPCC firmware version 1.42 it only worked in 29.98p and 30p when hooked up to my consumer TV. Now with the firmware 1.5 it works at 23.97p and 24p as well. The Aputure V-Converer A810 does a resolution conversion from 1080 going in to 720 coming out, so it now converts 23.97p and 24p correctly where as with FW 1.42 it did not. Something has changed. I recommend trying some TVs, monitors, and EVFs that didn't work before, maybe they do now. Also it might be a good idea to double check your stuff that has worked in the past just to be sure it still works now.
Astraban says "I just don't comment when I don't like something." LOL. You didn't like my comment, and you did say something, didn't you!
I actually do not want to see more space wasted here by obviously poorly-done videos (does anyone?). We are here to learn (and hopefully the guy posting that "free" video will examine the color and stabilization issues and what makes for a good video).
Besides, the point is that too many people think, as said just above, that the cute BMPC should be handled just like a P&S or cellphone. And what we are all seeing is that is not correct, over and over again.
And, yes, I am going to get the camera and see what I can do with it. I'll post a video if I think it's good; feel free to criticize it.
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Kowa just demo'ed some nice m43 prime prototypes, including an 8.5mm F2.8 that would be handy for the Pocket:
8.5mm T/3.0
12mm T/1.9
16mm T/1.6
25mm T/1.9
50mm T/2.1
ETA next year.
@markr041 no worries mate, i'll readily admit i'm a film noob. always looking for opportunities to get better with the camera so i appreciate the comments. any suggestions on how i could grade the footage better? i'm just starting out with the camera and davinci resolve so it's definitely a considerable learning curve. nevertheless, i'm not about to give up :)
@MaulKentor: I have a range of old Pentax lens both S and K mount they all work well. I have also been using Nikon AIS mount, Canon FD mount and believe it, or not, a couple of old Hasselblad lens. I prefer them to the modern Auto everything lens by along shot - they even feel better in the hand than those poorly finished plastic ones. I do have to admit though, my favourite is an old Zeiss 9.5mm T1.4 SuperSpeed - you can almost smell the quality of that little sucker.
@guosh Try looking into some different LUTs - you could try using the Arri LUT in Resolve instead of the Blackmagic LUT, but you should download and try out Hooks LUT or the Kodak and Fuji LUTs. Don't just rely on them for the whole grade, but use them as a jumping off point for your grades. Also, don't dismiss the auto correct button (little A in a circle at the bottom left of the color wheels), again, don't rely on it, but it has surprised me a few times and saved me the lions share of work in balancing (just tweak from there). Oh, and watch Resolve tutorials. As many as you can.
@jumo thanks! i've got Ripple Training's tutorials actually but haven't quite had the time to go through them all. I'll go watch and practice a little more before posting again. Just curious though, with regard to the LUTs would the balancing of the shot in the node before applying the LUT affect the color considerably?
@guosh Just keep at it, every time you load up Resolve you're one step ahead of the last time you closed it.
LUTs will always affect the color, some more than others. LUT stands for Look Up Table, which is like a reference chart for color. Imagine, if you will, a color printer. Let's say you print an image of a red square, it will print with the red ink that is in the red cartridge, but if you take that red cartridge out of the printer and replace it with a different tone of red ink, and you print the exact same image of the red square again, the new print will look different from the first print as it is using the new red ink that you swapped in. This is basically what a LUT does, it doesn't change the original image, it just changes the references for how the colors appear. If that makes any sense.
If you don't apply the LUT before doing your balancing, you won't have a clear view of what your image will actually look like, and it will make grading much more time consuming and difficult as you'll have to go back to basic corrections after applying the LUT, so get the LUT loaded into the LUT node right away!
Usually, when I load a new clip, if I'm not using a basic setup from a grab made earlier, I hit alt S a few times until I have a few serial nodes, then I add my LUT to the node second from the end, THEN start my grading on the first node.
If you apply corrections in a LUT ordered after the LUT node, you will be, in a sense, modifying the LUT, which in some cases is wanted, in others, not so much. The reason I leave a node after the LUT node is to apply sharpening (which is necessary on the BMPCC in ProRes), and perhaps a little final image tweaking. There is really no right or wrong here, just do whatever you need to get you to the image you want!
This suggest workflow is for ProRes in film mode, in video mode LUTs can be a little strong, you can try keying the opacity of the LUT node down to taste. And RAW is a different animal entirely! I hope some of that helps!
you gotta love this camera, I just took it out for a spin shot 5 mins of RAW from a moving car, brought it back home, dumped it into a Resolve 10 Lite timeline ZERO CORRECTION and rendered to Quicktime DNxHD 1080p 444 and got the most spot on footage I have achieved in age with almost zero work. Nice one Blackmagic.
@Brian202020 Definitely something fixed there, I can now use the Zeiss Cinemizer at 25 or 30 fps too, which didn't work before. I hope my Seetec will work as well, it's currently with a friend who was considering for his Canon while it didn't work with my BMPCC.
@jumo yes it really does help! thanks so much, I've regraded some clips and it looks a lot better. I'll shoot something more interesting in the coming days and post back here :)
I'm looking for a battery solution. What do you think about this option?
@alfaerik, if you don't need the bracket and can fashion some other attachment, I can recommend these super-cheap 12V Lion batteries from Ebay Hong Kong/China: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?221553-GH1-Stereoscopic-Rig-Collaboration&p=2243171&highlight=batteries#post2243171
I've been shooting with 2 of the top ones with dual GH2's for over 2 years (only occasionally though) and they're still going strong (YMMV). One typically runs both bodies most of the day (you can get even higher mAh ratings too).
I've had cheap Chinese camcorder batteries that died just from not being used, no issue with these. They even have their own on switch and internal charger.
EDIT: looking more closely, that Ebay one is v. similar to my plastic cased ones. Probably a newer model from the same factory.
I wonder whether Resolve 10 has bugs processing the BMPC's DNG footage. Even if "film" log has been activated for the raw footage, the video by default is way oversatured in Resolve, with no LUT applied. No such problems exist when opening the DNG sequences with Adobe Camera Raw in After Effects.
Anyone knowing a good workaround for Resolve?
@cantsin
When you open your DMG sequence in Resolve, you need to go to the Camera Raw settings on the Color tab (You can get there by clicking on the little Camera button below your timeline and above the controls), then select "Clip" under "Decode Using", and "BMD Film" under "Color space".
Hope that helps!
@cantsin ....Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but the BMPCC RAW is not recorded in film log. Film log requires processing, RAW is the absence of such (and high compression rates). Shooting RAW is the same as shooting in video mode in terms of color/gamma, just with less compression in camera. I've come to this conclusion because when I add a LUT to raw, it gets this oversaturated blown out look on the highs, and also RAW doesn't have that flat look film mode does. So in Resolve you would CC RAW like you would Video prores instead of film prores. No?
EDIT=I just tried Flanders (not going to spell it out) suggestion and it looks awesome. I'm lost.
@Flaaandeeers Many thanks!
@_gl Thanks for the reply! I had one of those for my GH2 as well. But it died after I had used it a couple of times. Maybe it was just bad luck, it was great while it was working. Maybe I'll consider it again.
I'm lost.
Shooting RAW is NOT "the same as shooting in video mode in terms of color/gamma" -- contrast and color will be way off in RAW, because of all the data which is being captured. Those supersaturated RAW images speak for themselves. It's likely to become a style, but this is not how the footage is supposed to look.
Use the procedure that Flanders spelled out, or if you want to do all the clips at once, the Blackmagic BMPCC/BMCC manual explains how to do it for all clips in a project.
Once the data is in this more manageable form (BMD film), then you start grading as you would when shooting in Prores film mode, which means starting from scratch -- applying curves, determining saturation levels, using power windows where necessary, etc. Or using an LUT or add-on to give you a basic grade, which you can then refine.
RAW is like seeing the middle exposure part (viewable range) of the clip with unseen "handles" of exposure on each end that can be pulled into the viewable range if wanted. Video ProRes mode has no exposure "handles" at all, thus limiting the dynamic range. Film ProRes mode also has no exposure "handles", but unlike Video mode, the entire sensor dynamic range is compressed into the viewable range.
I hope that makes sence to people, and makes it easier to understand.
I suggest everyone that is new go find Davinci tutorials for RAW online somewhere and watch them before blindly loading footage up and then freaking out. This is a process people. Learn it. I would try and post some links but I'm on location in the middle of the Mojave Desert so I only have crappy cell phone service at the moment.
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