JJJ, you may be right, I'm expecting too much maybe.
no you're not yellow papi, specially at the flagship price tag panasonic endorses their product.
I, myself, find unacceptable this very anoying fucked up colour shifts in deep shadows.
would be interesting to understand the pattern of this non-lineal (case is such) behavior. is it truly random? can be the shifts and to which hue and degree be predicted? if affirmative that would make easier to come up with correction strategies, i.e. creating processing presets we apply to the affected poor baby-photos in a certain interval or smooth transitions in a program like LRtimelapse. does it also happen in video? ... that shouldn't stop you making your TLs or trying to find, with the good PV citizens' help, a way to mitigate the issue. If everything fails, please consider yourself the possibility of changing approach to what and how you want to do... who knows maybe you discover the Breakage that is in you :P
Is anyone else experiencing this on long recordings?
Insofar I had not noticed those video gamma changes.
The color shift looks like radomly appearing, but I can't say this for sure. Some TL have been massively affected, some other have only 2 or 3 corrupted frames. Don't really know. I have done lots of test only to replicate the issue, but I have not being able to understand what's influencing the quantity of color shifts.
One user from eoshd.com did the same test as mine, he has got the same results as me, take a look:
http://i.imgur.com/5nOZAKG.png
Following the advice of one user, I have tried doing a raw timelapse in the oppose direction: instead of underexposing shady areas, I have overexposed the sky. In post then, I have reduced the exposure, and the result looks like very good. I have done only a few test for now, but it look like that overexposed frames can help reducing/avoiding color flicker in shadows. But I need more time and tests to be sure that this solution can be helpful for every situation.
Hi!
This morning I was shooting with my GH3 together with a Ruige monitor. When I first connected the two, my monitor started whistling in a feedback loop...getting louder and louder. The audio track in the mov isn´t affected (like in internally affected, but the cam's mic would of course pick up the whistle...). I can turn down the volume on the Ruige speakers, so no problem.
But does anyone have an idea of what could be going on?
Thanks!
I have a problem with my Limix GH3 camera. The picture which I see through the viewfinder or internal display is blurry. Like it have been downscaled somehow. Especially it's obvious then I use non-kit lens and Ex. Tele Conv mode. Therefore it's impossible to catch focus right. The picture becoming perfectly sharp when I start video recording so this in not a problem with viewfinder or display. Do you known something about this issue? Maybe there is some workaround to cope with it?
Max,
I've owned 3 other G-cameras, and this is by far the hardest viewfinder to use, however I shoot nothing but manual focus stills and have been getting good results. What I've found is that you need to look through a very small area in the middle to the area of the viewfinder you're looking at. Imagine that instead of the whole screen in front of your eye there was a very small hole, almost a pin-hole, and that to see up or down you have to look through that pin hole. If you are trying to look at something in the top of the EVF and don't look through the middle to it, it won't be sharp.
I'm sure this isn't the answer you wanted, but my first cam had to go back, and they both look exactly the same, so it seems to be a crazy, but usable design.
I have theory that EVF changed quite unexpectingly not long before release. Most probably original planned EVF was same as new Olympus 2.4Mp EVF. And hence optic had been redesigned in hurry without body redesign.
@Vitaliy yeah i wouldn't be surprised. it seems like a terrible design oversight, especially for a flagship photog cam.
I got a reply from panasonic a while back saying thats the way the evf and optics is designed and is within working operations. They said with the glass element used in the efv eyesight has to be perpendicular or it has to be assembled dead perpendicular to the to the evf for it to be clear or something along those words. You know, kinda like driving on a freeway and doing a lane change without moving your eyes....hmmmm...yeah we all shoot dead centre.
Have you guys noticed image fuzzing on the evf when half press for focus? It's almost like its in ETC mode. I have noticed this a few times, cant remember if i had lumix, OIS/non OIS glass at the time but it made focus useless. You had to just hope that the camera was focusing correctly.
Have you guys noticed image fuzzing on the evf when half press for focus?
Nope, all works ok.
Anybody experienced weird green artifacts when using cropped sensor during 300% timelapse in video mode? Im not athome right now so wont be able to upload example.
Documented theater show a few days ago was the first time I used GH3 for live work. EVF not usable. I thought my eye was getting use to it but impossible to nail focus. Will be going back to my GH2 for close ups with manual lens and GH3 will have to be relegated to the static wide. Pity.
Has anyone else had any noticeable color rendering issues with the GH3, especially in Tungsten and low lighting?
Glad it helped! I use the EVF 99% of the time so mine is "on". I do a lot of bird photography with the camera mounted on a scope. Sometimes I'll use the LCD to monitor what's happening when I don't have my eye up to the EVF, and in that case when I move away from the EVF I want the LCD to come on so that's why I chose that setting. If you never use the EVF then I guess you'd want it off.
Hey guys, since today when I set intervalometer to start a timelapse the GH3 just reboots (or goes into strange sleep mode, couldn't tell), tried in all shooting modes, with different intervalometer settings, lens, cards, resetting it, but behavior remains... firm is v1.2. Any thoughts, tips??? thank you
Hi, i have a problem with gh3 HDMI out. There is no any signal when camera connected to monitor, but i got it when try to play files from sd card. What is the problem, who knows? Am i need to return cam, or i just do not know some special button to switch on HDMI output? Thank you.
Oh, it was my monitor problem. Just try another one and all works fine.
Intervalometer problem was probably software bug. Now's fixed: downgraded to firmware v1.1 - you can do this simply by calling the .bin file "v1.3" instead. It was working, checked, all modes and different settings, checked, so then re-upgraded again to v1.2. Reset everything again and rechecked voila! Now the reconfiguring... 0O0
I've had the same/similar issue maxr... You are talking about the pre-programmed timer function of the timelapse right? Not the "Start Now" option. I can do the "Start now" way but whenever I programmed the time to start, it will go to sleep, and it doesn't wake up at the pre-programmed time! Thanks for the possible solution, let me try this, I did update directly from v1.0 to v1.2 and skipped v1.1... where can I find a v1.1 file again?
You are talking about the pre-programmed timer function of the timelapse right?
@i3_theanswer actually I only checked the "Start Now" option as the other one I never use it. Now they're both working... When I set the time I want the TL to start, the camera goes napping and then wakes up and starts shooting... interface job's really awful, you never know if it's on already or what. If your "Start Now" mode is working maybe you'll want to recheck the "alarm" mode; it fooled me :P Fucking pain-a-sonic , how difficult is to implement a decent intervalometer, jezuz!!!
where can I find a v1.1 file again?
--> here my friend
@maxr Thanks so much for the v1.1 file and the tips. When you say "alarm" mode you just mean setting a tone for the electronic shutter so you know that an image is being taken right?
I just downgraded to v1.1 and the camera still go to nap and doesn't wake up at the programmed time. I wonder if I am doing something wrong. And also, do others have the same issue as me?
Are these the steps you have set it up with? 1) Go into the timelapse mode to set up the start time, shooting intervals etc. 2) Go back to the main timelapse menu and navigate to the top "Start" press "Set/Enter" 3) Camera prompts press shutter to start, press shutter all the way down.
At this point the camera will go into sleep mode and I would assume that it should wake up to take pictures at the programmed time. Mine keeps in sleeping mode way past the time without taking pictures. I press the shutter to turn on the camera again and noticed its still in set timer mode, it asks me to press F1 to pause, or end the timelapse.
In other words, it didn't start by itself, please let me know if I have done any of the steps wrong.
Thanks.
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!