@trevmar Thanks for the sujestion, but I already tried in those three positions and in most of the cases it didnt helped much.

No, a perfect shutter speed for 60fps is 1/120. For 50fps 1/100, but you can drop it to 1/60, 1/50, or even 1/30 but at 1/30 you have to consider huge motion blur... You will still achieve slow motion effect if wanted, but it won't be as good as it is at 1/120 or 1/100.

The reason I drop the shutter speed is to obtain less noise on indoor footage. Running with a 1/30 shutter gives excellent video for YouTube (etc) with a 2-stop advantage over the 1/120 suggested above. Incidentally, I prefer a 1/60 shutter at 60p over 1/120 for exactly the same reason - lower image noise.

In any case, the 1/120 value comes from Film Movie Cameras -- which had a 50% shutter, which could remain open for only half the 24p frame, before the film had to be physically moved to the new frame. I am not convinced that the eye 'prefers' this, I find that a shutter speed of 1/60 at a 60fps frame rate gives good motion blur, and prevents the "jerkiness" you often see on digital video.

Hey Vitaliy - How is the hacking going? :) Any progres already?

Hey Vitaliy - How is the hacking going? :)

All is ok. But it won't be made fast, I told this right from the start.

The standard shutter speed for 60 FPS is indeed 1/120. Its 180 degree shutter. Anyhow for higher FPS its less important that for 24p.

@meirhans While I agree that film cameras were limited to 180 degree shutters due to mechanical limitations, electronic shutters can achieve much closer to a 360 degree shutter, motion blur that is pretty well continuous. Why would you deprecate the smoother motion blur from a 360 degree shutter, such as from the FZ200 at AVCHD 30p?

@evero @trevmar +1. Unless slowmotion take, 1/60 shutter for 60p.

Ok, figured out how to make the Rode Videomic sound better going into the FZ200. Enabled High Pass filter, switched to -20dB pad.

Compared to the AT3350 in the video a few posts back... what do you think? Suggestions, tips, tricks...?

Thanks,

Tony

@Meierhans

"Well the difference is when you’re dealing with digital cinema, filming at a greater than 180 degree shutter (which you should NEVER EVER do), allows each frame to contain too much motion blur which results in a “smeary” look"

I disagree. I disagree totally, and I doubt we will ever find common ground on using a 360 degree shutter. Your still-image showing motion blur is a still-image. When the eye sees motion blur as part of a moving image, and interprets it as motion, a larger degree of smoothness may be preferred. Frankly, I don't care what film-cameras were able to do. We have better equipment these days, and we should be seeking to use it to its full potential.

No disrespect intended. This is a subjective thing. And that is why I don't like newbies being discouraged from experimenting to find the optimum settings for their equipment, and their scene. Sometimes (in my case, nearly always) they might prefer a 360 degrees shutter :)

@RobDover The test images look good. The diagonal from -2,-2 to +2,+2 looks particular uniform. I would choose somewhere along this, I think. With my preference at -2,-2 and using RAW. I can easily get JPEGs for web use from the thumbnails in the RW2 images :)

I started playing with the Silkypix Pro 5 today -- its noise reduction is really, really, good. But the HDR mode is superb. I was surprised how much detail it could bring into images I already thought were excellent -- just using the data from the RAW RW2 file to composite an HDR image...

@RobDover Thanks you for sharing your experience with us. Much appreciated. I have made some similar experiences for myself, and while I'm still experimenting I'm using -2NR -2Sharp and in some cases -1NR -2Sharp (I find that Sharpness above -2 creates allot of noise in the Jpgs). Both with iRes ON because I think it helps a little with sharpening the image. I'm now shooting in Raw+jpg and I think the Raw after processing (removing noise and other tweaks) are amazing. At first I was a little disappointed with the camera, but now I'm enjoying this camera allot. I wish the macro was better though (I can't zoom close enough for my taste without losing focus) and sometimes when I try manual focus I still have difficulty in getting the focus perfect, even with the focus assist ON, but I think its lack of practice of my part and I will get better accuracy while I continue using the camera (focus peaking would be a nice hack if was possible for this camera).

And the candle light shots ( ISO 1000 [ ISO 2000 GH2 equivalent ] )