last eclipse I photographed was back in 1999, using a bolex with a sigma nikon mount 400mm lens. My rig was absolutely hopeless the images were pretty well unusable (but most of it was hidden by clouds, so I didn't worry too much :) )
This time I'll be taking the same lens, on the GH2, with the tele crop I reckon the sun should just about fill the frame. Is the 7402/7401 up to the job? The midspreader version would be my preferred, but is possibly less stable than the other?
Any other tips for super long lens shooting?
@Gethinc I'll help anyway I can. I've shot eclipses, transits, sunspots and otherwise with everything from a 200mm to the Canon 600mm f/4 L.
The number one thing to keep in mind is "do not underestimate the wind" - sandbags, best tripod you can get and do NOT touch anything once you start recording. I have no experience with the 7402/7401.
Second thing is to make sure to test the heck out of your equipment (and hacked settings) for at least two days before the eclipse. If I had done that for my first such experience, it would have saved me a lot of pain and frustration.
As far as ETC mode, it works great for those sorts of event. http://perlichtman.com/pasdenapulse/wordpress/2012/05/08/the-moon-shot-variety-blog/
Here is some video shot with the 600mm on a GH2. I remember at least some of it was in ETC mode.
far out, i guess the wobble you can see at the end is just from heat haze!? this eclispe is very early in the morning - less heat haze but more atmosphere to shoot through. Getting the exposure right is going to require more research (the lens I've got is quite slow - I've got no idea what exposures I should be looking at to capture the corona).
Sandbags on the ground probably not an option - do you think it would help to sandbag the tripod head? (The lens collar mount is a bit iffy on this lens)
@Gethinc I cannot get into specifics for approaches I have not tried, but I can tell you that even with a heavy lens like the 600mm f/4 (which was around 13 lbs or so) wind was a big issue at that spot. If you happen to be able to find a spot that is somewhat shielded from the wind, you will be ahead of the game. Other than that, anything you can do to stabilize things/weigh them down is worth a shot.
A slow lens is NOT an issue for shooting the eclipse. It is bright - the light needs to be cut down. You will probably need a strong ND filter (I often use the Hoya 400x for various astronomical events) or to use a very fast shutter speed. Some people say that your sensor is safer if you use the ND filter. I have shot it both ways.
If you want a 180 degree shutter, definitely find a good ND filter.
I shot the eclipse that happened here int he US this spring, using a 300mm lens stopped all the way down to f22 and then a vari-ND closed nearly all the way. it worked well .. my wife was with and discovered that if she looked through the back two windows of the car ( limo black tinted windows) it was a perfect way to look at it.. as the eclipse was happening as the sun set so it was low enough to do that..
This was shot with a GH2 + 14-140mm + variable ND filter. I think it was F22 1/4000th of a second even with the ND filter closed all the way down.
just realised I didn't day thanks for the replies! Off on the trip tomorrow. Ran out of time to get anything organised pretty much, I'm going to rely on sandbags. I've got a 10 stop ND, which I think will be overkill for the actual moment of eclipse. Thats the bit I'm not sure how to expose for. Hopefully therell be some other eclipse photographers around I can pick their brains. I'll take my 60d and do a timelpase with that too. will post the results here :)
Oh, any suggestions which hack to go for? I'll be shooting 1080p
heres what i did. In the end I got so caught up in the actual event (as the goofy soundtrack will show!) that videoing it became secondary. it was an amazing experience!
Great, well done!
Thank you for sharing, I really enjoyed watching :)
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