How did you film that sample? Is that the file from the camera or is that a video of the screen?
I downloaded the file and it looks like it's typical GH4 bitrate and details. The codec ID says QT on your video while all of mine show mp42 in the meta info.
I've never seen anything so poor from my GH4. The images on my screen look amazing compared to what I see on the computer. Sometimes I'm disappointed with the actual image compared to how great it looks on the camera.
It almost looks like you're filming through a screen :)
Curious what mode you are using and what lens and how you are showing that crazy image there.
Cheers, Pete
c3hammer: thanks for your reply! My sample is very rudimentary I know, I filmed my PC screen. I shrunk the video size to try to capture the artefacts that shows up on my OLED screen when filming. From 00:06-00:19 I think you can view them. I am a beginner so sorry if I ask stupid questions, but I think this is called aliasing right? It is very noticeably, almost as bad as shown in video, when filming or simply looking through the EVF or flip-out screen. But when I playback what I filmed on the flip-out screen it is much better, if not perfect. And it looks fine to me on computer. If the OLED was faulty surely it would look just as bad during playback as during recording? I am using Panny 35-100mm mainly.
No worries @Jercho.
film the same scene in mp4 (lpcm) 4k 100m and all zero's and upload the original 10 sec clip to vimeo so we can see if there's something going on with how you are recording, the cam or your playback apparatus.
Cheers, Pete
I couldn't upload any more to Vimeo for the moment, but here is my clip from youtube, don't know if it is of any use:
When I filmed this sequence it was a total mess of aliasing on the OLED screen. When I played the clip on the OLED it looked way better but not perfect. When I play the clip on PC I think it looks alright, or what do you think? Standard profile everything at 0. No iDynamic or anything added. Panny 12-35mm. 4k mp4 100m 30p.
Why is it so underexposed? You will get artefacts in your footage from under exposing.
mrbill: Yeah, I know I tend to underexpose too much. But my issue has really nothing to do with exposure in my opinion, I'll get the same result no matter what exposure when filming. Noise is really not the problem either, I've had the GH3 before so I'm used with it, it is more in line with heavy aliasing/jittery lines when everything is sharp in focus. And like I said before, it looks OK when viewing on computer it is only really bad on the flip-out screen and evf. It's like there's some kind of compression going on. It is noticeable on both my Panny 2.8 lenses and also, but to a lesser extent, on my Voigt 0.95 17mm.
OK, so I've been doing more tests and searching the internet for similar issues and maybe this is all about me being very picky? When shooting 4K the video is being downscaled to lower resolution on the OLED lcd screen which leads to aliasing and moiré on the lcd screen but not in the actual recording so to speak. That explains why the aliasing is not visible on my computer files. In that case, this should be something that all you guys experience as well in your cameras. Am I right? Maybe this is inevitably but I think it is very annoying when trying to compose a scene.
@Jericho Let it go... you cannot evaluate camera performance based on LCD/VF. It is normal to have less dynamic range, less color accuracy, less resolution... What counts is really how it displays on a calibrated 1:1 resolution display.
@Jericho, I watched your youtube 4k vid and it's perfect under exposed GH4 image. No aliasing of any kind on my 1080 or 2.5k monitors.
I'm not seeing even the slightest bit of aliasing in my LCD in any mode I shoot in. I have tried just about every display option and the thing is just about perfect no matter what. You sure you're not seeing the focus peaking flickering around in the LCD?
Go to the wrench C menu and turn off focus peaking to see if that is what is causing your frustration. There is a 'low' setting that is very sensitive and a 'high' setting that is much less sensitive. Play around there and see if that cleans things up for you.
If you are really getting aliasing like in your first vimeo sample on the LCD without any peaking on, there is a problem with your LCD.
Cheers, Pete
OK, so today I tested two other GH4s with my Panny lenses and they both showed the exact same issue. Heavy aliasing on OLED and EVF when filming in 4K. I have also been in contact with some other GH4-users who claim to have the same issue. The strange thing is that some people, like c3hammer, claims to have no issues with this. It is very peculiar. Either there are many thousands faulty cameras out there or some people are just more picky and affected by this? I'm pretty sure the problem has to do with downsampling of the 4K-resolution to the smaller screen somehow as the screen is perfect when used for still photography and OK with 1080p. I'm really surprised there hasn't been any more complains about this, in my opinion it borders on making the GH4 worthless without an external monitor. I might as well have gotten an A7S if I knew about this which by the way showed no aliasing on screen when I tested it in the camera store today. :-(
@Jericho so you think the camera is worthless simply because you have aliasing from the cameras downsampling to try to show you the image on its tiny screens? It's roughly a $1700 camera, it's not a $30K-$50K camera. If you know that the camera isn't aliasing and you don't see it in the final image on a computer screen calibrated to show you, why is that a deal breaker? If it bothers you that much, get an external monitor, or recorder, and actually record 422 10Bit from the camera on top of it. I mean, you're asking a cheap video camera that is capable of great things, to do EVERYTHING.
I mean, most people don't even trust the screens for exposure like @jopereira says, it's not truly accurate. I've used Canon cameras, Black Magic, RED, and more, and I really don't trust anything until I see it on a computer after the shoot.
Also, Panny lenses are clinically sharp, are you turning down internal sharpening? Try vintage lenses instead.
If you think you should've gotten an A7S, go get it. I personally don't like the colors or image out of it, it's more expensive, has more expensive native glass that isn't nearly as large a collection as M43, has an odd mount that you need a adapter for as well. Full Frame shooting from it has bad rolling shutter. You need an external recorder on top of its price to get a 4K image out of, that is always limited to 8bit 420. Not to mention weird ergonomics that I've never heard anyone say they enjoyed.
But hey, if aliasing on your built-in monitor is a deal breaker, then look elsewhere. No camera will satisfy all your needs. Do the best with what you got. If you can get better, or want something else, just do it.
@zachasurp I get your point(s) and I confess that I might be picky. Yes the Panny lenses make it worse because they are so sharp but even vintage lenses show aliasing in 4K. Still, the main question remains. How come some people have this issue with their screens whereas others claims to have no issue at all? That is really what is bugging me. Do you have this aliasing zachasurp?
@Jericho I've never noticed anything that made it unusable, I will have to double check this weekend. But like it said, I don't trust the built in monitors for anything by eye like that, unless it's a monitor that you have calibrated at least monthly, then there is no point in judging anything. And even if you are getting aliasing, like when you watch a 4K video on youtube in a very small window, when you watch on a proper screen (or sized screen) and aren't downsampling a huge amount, it will be gone. There is probably no way around that, period.
We can all be thankful that GH4's 4K actually gets rid of the downsampling of a larger sensor area, and in affect gets rid of aliasing. But on the small built in monitor, that's just something that will probably always be there.
First, some people are more prone to differentiate small things apart than other people. That's a factor.
Second, those with more experience in taking things all the way through to delivery to paying clients typically spend far more time worrying about the entire "chain" than any one part of it. They test ... everything. So, if there is less than perfect OLED performance, they will have also tested what is the performance of the recorded material on computer, which is the only really crucial part.
If the material that they have to work on computer is of good quality, with minimal artifacts, and can be post-processed to satisfactory delivery standards, then they adjust their expectation of the image on the OLED to what it produces when they know the recorded material will be good. And/or get an external monitor.
So ... what this leads to is the statement that what gets on your computer is far more important than what appears on the camera's little built-in screen. That little device is NOT a field monitor, and for the price of the whole camera is quite good. I just spent nearly $400 just to get a decent field monitor (got the Neway CL76HO-X through this site, btw) and got a heck of a deal. Most field monitors are quite a bit spendier than this one even.
The important part ... and the one you need to test ... is what does it RECORD. How does that play back, and how does it take post-processing to meet your needs? How do you need to set this up for different lighting and movement situations? And after you've determined THAT ... you learn how your little OLED displays the stuff that is dead-on for recording/post. And get used to it.
Same process with any camera. Many found the GH3 screen to be absolutely caca to use for manual focusing, and as they used a fair amount of adapted glass, this became a deal-breaker. That is a very understandable issue. Others ... adapted.
Aliasing on the camera's little screen if not present in the actual recorded material wouldn't be a big issue for me. It wouldn't affect focus-checking or getting a feel for the proportions of the composition, or the way light "plays" across the scene.
Neil
@Jericho I know exactly what you're referring to and I see it all the time but almost every small monitor displays aliasing and moire this way. As long as it isn't present in your final footage, you're good.
I very rarely encounter true moire and aliasing problems with the GH4. I've just gotten used to not being bothered by it on the LCD because I know it's not going to be there in post. The LCD also displays a smaller dynamic range where highlights look blown on the LCD but are there in the footage when viewed on a computer later.
Heck, even the preview window in Premiere will show aliasing and moire artifacts if not viewed at 100% So pretty much anytime you're doing realtime/live scaling or downsampling, you're likely to see these issues.
Am having problems with corrupted JPG images using no-name Class 10 SD card. Pictures are taken correctly, and I can review the images after they are taken (which had me believing that those images had already been stored on the SD card) but over half of my still images are filled with hex FF bytes. The 3 most recent images are always OK in review mode, making me wonder if the GH4 is caching the images for review rather than pulling them off of the SD card. There is no other discernible pattern to the good and bad images. I assume that things will improve with at good SD card. I had hoped to use a cheaper SD card for just shooting stills, but I guess that will not work. Wonder if anyone else has seen corrupted JPG still images. Would be nice if the camera performed some sort of compatibility test each time it powered up: it would have saved me hundreds of lost images.
I am stumped on playback with no headphones plugged in: Audio is muted. I can't seem to find a way to un-mute it, I know it used to be able to playback through a speaker before FW 2.0
The manual says to rotate one of the dials to turn up the volume. I have tried rotating all 3 dials, pressing buttons, pressing the touch screen, yet nothing will un-mute the audio or turn it up, this is all without headphones plugged in.
The moment I plug some headphones in, I can hear the audio and manipulate the volume using one of the dials.
Any suggestions? Does anyone else have audio while playing back (w/out headphones) & on the latest firmware?
I'm trying to work out what I am doing wrong but the new Anamorphic "ON" setting won't stay saved, even after I record a simple video. ie. I change the setting, choose YES to switch to 4:3 and then it says ON... I close the menu, re-open it and it still says it is on. I hit record to record a movie and ... it turns off. I open the menu and it clearly says OFF now. The video recorded is 16:9
Anyone know what is going on?
Ok, I think I sorted it out myself - I had my camera set to "cinema 25" mode and not "NTSC" and due to a bug in the firmware, that causes the camera to auto-deselect the anamorphic mode as soon as you hit record, without telling you! Unfortunately this means all the anamorphic footage I shot at the weekend wasn't in the max res :(
I think the AE function behaves in an inconsistent and unexpected ways. Can someone try and reproduce?
Behaviors I observed:
The AE function will not close Aperture (A) of Movie that is Manual exposure. It will open A.
The AE function will not adjust Shutter Speed (SS) of a Manual exposure Movie that uses Angle SS display.
The AE function will not close A of a Manual exposure Movie that uses Angle SS display.
The AE function will not adjust A of a Movie in Manual exposure that uses SEC/ISO SS display.
By way of comparison, the AE function will adjust both A and SS in Manual picture mode (incl open/close A, faster/slower SS).
This is easiest to observe using the Spot Metering Mode.
Steps to reproduce (GH4 + 12-35mm F2.8 lens, latest FW):
1. Assign >AE< to Fn1 button
2. Set Metering Mode to Spot
3. Set Function Dial to M (Manual Picture mode)
4. Point camera at a specific spot and observe the meter reading (exposure reading appears to work normally)
5. Press Fn1 - camera resets Aperture (A) and Shutter Speed (SS) according to the precise position of the reticule spot, as expected. Repeat steps 4 & 5 to see how the AE function works with different lighting conditions. I observed that the AE function adjust both A and SS while in Manual picture mode.
6. Set Function Dial to Creative Movie, Manual exposure
7. Set SS/Gain to Angle/ISO
8. Point camera at a specific spot and observe the meter reading (exposure reading appears to work normally)
9. Press Fn1 - AE will only open Aperture (A) to brighter setting (i.e., exposure reticule spot is in under exposed area): AE will not adjust SS. If the exposure reticule spot is in an over exposed area, the AE function will do nothing.
10. Set SS/Gain to SEC/ISO
11. Repeat steps 8 & 9 - AE will only adjust SS (in both directions). AE will not adjust A.
Desired AE behaviors (for discussion):
The AE function should be able to open and close Aperture (A) of Movie that is Manual exposure.
The AE function should be able adjust Shutter Speed (SS) of a Manual exposure Movie that uses Angle SS display.
The AE function should be able to open and close A of a Manual exposure Movie that uses Angle SS display.
The AE function should be able to adjust A of a Movie in Manual exposure that uses SEC/ISO SS display.
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