https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Rig-Stereoscopic-support-with-mirror-stereo-camera/323878737054?hash=item4b68ad549e:g:nFUAAOSwHzNdSu0Q

Dan Chung made small overview of their stuff at BIRTV.

Let me know if something of this is interesting to you.

Based on cages initially built by hand, this next generation cage will be CNC'd and even more feature-rich than the previous generations, as well as incredibly light weight and well-balanced!

While the design is nearly complete, I am still open to ideas and suggestions people here might have. We addressed many of the issues often experienced with other cages on the market and added a few extra features never before seen such as a relocatable grip option!

Gear used on both videos:

• Panasonic GH2 cam with flowmotion hack
• Two Minolta MD lenses, 28mm F1.8 and 50mm F.17
• Sigma 19mm F2.8
• Mostly shot with: a rig, tripod, table slider and handheld

My goal is to eventually work more with commercial artists and especially to learn as much as possible about cinematography and cinematic aspects used in music videos.

Would love to receive some feedback on both videos!

Cheers,

D

We just finished a commercial film production and thought I share some insights on why we have chosen to shoot this with the GH4. Our key requirements have been

1. 10Bit 4k capability (greenscreen project!)
2. Light weight (we had challeging camera angles and limited budget for rigging => e.g. birdeye shots with shitty rig)
3. Long battery life (we didn't want to add external battery solutions => our rig had very low weight limitations)
4. Problem free (e.g. no overheating)

So after long discussions choosing between Sony A7s II and GH4, we decided to use the latter one and I don't regret this decision.

We had a lot of challenges but they have not been regarding camera choice, more related to the customers corporate colors (yellow turning green in shadows) and lighting the massive greenscreen. The only real challenge on the GH4 for us was the shitty HDMI port but we solved that with adding a Zacuto Port Protector (without that, it would have been a nightmare!).

But judge for yourself, feedback welcome! (note: the project required massive effort in post production)

Lanparte new rig

https://www.edelkrone.com/p/467/the-pocket-rig-2

Apparently they have gotten rid of the adjustment knobs and switch to what they call constant friction joints. It looks good and from the pictures (I'm in china right now so watching the video isn't working for me) it looks much more sturdy than the previous model (a knockpff of which I was just about to buy when I saw this). I have been contemplating getting an em5 mark 2 for shooting handheld video at festivals here in china with the 3 new voigtlanders I am getting. But if this works pretty well I may just save 700 dollars and get it instead and shoot on my gx7 or g6. Just at first glance how does everyone think it compares to the first model and do you think it will fix some of the version 1 issues?

I didn't have much time to check out the gh4 so far, a lot of work hinders me, going too far into research for each little thing myself, that's why I hoped I could get a little support from you hear. Mostly I'll record video and sound on myself at the same time, not sure if I'll have an assistant from time to time. My idea until now is to record in 4k, maybe in 24fps should be alright I guess. The shooting will be for a 5 video monitor/large flat screen panels installation.

My equipment so far: GH4 with kit lens 12-35mm

• Voigtlander Nocton 17.5mm 0.95f with UV and ND filters
• Voigtlander Nocton 42.5mm 0.95f with UV and ND filters
• One SD card SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB 280 MB/s (I'll have another one like that)
• only one battery so far
• trolley case

I'll definitely need a second battery or the battery grip, is it a good thing to have?

• Sound Recording device
• Microphone (one or two? maybe too much to handle!)

• Wind jammer (boom?)

• Any experiences with 'Rycote Zoom H5 Audio Kit' or 'Tascam DR-60DmkII 4-Channel Portable Recorder with Rode NTG2 Condenser Shotgun Mic Kit'?

• Tripod mainly to use as proper stand in any condition, not sure if I'll need a very heavy one for doing pans?

• Rig / steady cam? I actually would prefer shooting with a rig/steady cam to make pans with a heavy tripod. Follow focus! Which one?

• A super-portable extra light like dedo light!

• SSD discs for backups?

• A Mattebox?

And everything should be of proper quality, lightweight one-person-solutions, possible to get through the airports O.K..

Thanks, I appreciate your hints, ideas, experiences and comments ! kolinko

Anyone tried with gh4 and ronin-m?

The Pocket is only $500 USD / £390 UKP this summer (very limited availability, buy now!) .

Frame Sync is the big problem:

Syncing two cams for 3D cannot be done in post - they need to be synced at the pixel level, ie. each camera should begin each frame at exactly the same time. In other words, this is a fractional-frame problem; but you can only correct whole frames in post (not counting pixel interpolators like Twixtor which can cause unacceptable artifacts in 3D).

Pro cameras are synced with 'Genlock' - basically a connection between the two cameras that tightly synchronises frame capture. Without this, the cameras have a random gap between frame starts, anywhere up to 1/2 frame. So if you shoot 24p, the cameras will be randomly out up to 1/48th of a second, and you have no way to predict what that error will be at any given time. In 3D this is catastrophic, at least if there is any significant motion in the frame. The delay pushes moving objects forwards or backwards in 3D, and can also cause a weird shimmering effect. And forget high motion which looks awful.

Solutions:

1) hardware mod: do true genlocking by linking the cameras' capture timers or master clocks somehow at the circuit board level). This is perfect, but tricky/risky and requires skill and experience.

2) Simul-power workaround (this is what we use on the Panny GHs, and works on many others): you power-up both cameras at exactly the same time (usually with external power and a dual-switch or a custom circuit). Many cameras synchronize their frame capture from a global running clock, which is initialised at boot and never changes. So it doesn't actually matter when you trigger record - the first frame capture is always locked to that clock (ie. it waits for the next frame 'slot' before starting recording). By simul-powering the bodies, those clocks start in sync on both bodies and frames are synced.

we don't know if this works on the Pocket yet.

Downside: as no two digital clocks run at exactly the same speed, the bodies slowly drift out of sync. How fast depends on how closely matched the bodies are - people usually try to get consecutive serial nos., hoping that the eletronics components are likely from the same batch and so a close match. My badly matched (2 month apart) GH2's are good for about 4-5 mins before the drift becomes bad. Apparently some drift far less. So you have to keep power-cycling.

Problem: The Pocket only powers up when a button is pressed ('soft' power). It needs to power instantly as soon as external juice is on (one idea, permanently tape the power button down - does it work?).

3) LANC. The Pocket apparently responds to the LANC 'record' command (but not power cmds). If we're really lucky and this resets the frame capture timers (unlikely), it might be enough.

4) Firmware:

If the capture timers are NOT reset by capture start, BMD could add this to a firmware update. Then LANC-initiated record would always start in sync (subject to gradual drift) - much nicer than having to power-cycle all the time. This might be super-easy for BMD to do.

Of course some kind of true hardware sync option (maybe via the USB or LANC ports) would be best! BMD could probably do it if they wanted to - contact them if you want this: http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/uk/support (without demand it's unlikely to happen):

Exposure / Zoom sync:

Frame sync is the most important, but it would also be much nicer if exposure (iris, ISO, shutter-speed), focus etc settings could also be synchronised, ideally in real-time (one body acts as master, one as slave). Firmware or LANC command additions could do this.

With the pocket's small size, ultra-light and compact SBS (side-by-side) 3D rigs are possible. With 'body stacking', you can even get the lenses as close as around 70mm! With Speedboosters and fast lenses you can do lowlight and shoot wide (my target), and you have 10bit ProRes and 12bit RAW. Let's make it happen!

Very lightly used with zero cosmetic blemishes. Use the rail mount to attach a Follow Focus, attach a handle or rails for shoulder handheld work.

$120 + shipping

Located in South Korea

Base plate is $235 US new, Shoulder pad is $79 US new. Asking $150 for baseplate, and $50 for shoulder pad. Send me a message if you're interested.

Will entertain any reasonable offers.

Please PM or email me at innersparkfilms@gmail.com if you're interested or have any questions.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/DiatarusSOulbane/20150721_233455_zps0rjcsqwd.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/DiatarusSOulbane/20150721_233505_zps09hj7oxy.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/DiatarusSOulbane/20150721_233517_zpsn4jrsakj.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/DiatarusSOulbane/20150907_141608_zpsdxehye5e.jpg

My plan was to keep is as compact but practical as possible.

thanks, Simon

The idea of this is making a safe next step in equipment and also prepare for a PRO super 34mm 4k camera. Im betwen the AJA xion and the sony FS7. This GH4s will complement that final buy. But this is firts more sell, money later, then ill buy the super 35mm camera.

Here the proof gh2 hard work: Its incredible what you can get from this little gh2 bastards

The thing is TO YAGH OR NOT TO YAGH?????? This means to SDI or not. On pro enviroment you CAN get allright with HDMI if properly taped and secured, but SDI is lock standard.

Adding YAGHS dont increase the cost to much, BUT THE COMPLEXITY OF THE SYSTEM INCREASES QUIET A BIT.

So here is my list ( ANY COMENTS ARE WELCOME PLEASE)

x6 Atomos Micro HDMI Coiled Cable (11.8-17.7") ( in my experience this shit brakes alot) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1065080-REG/atomos_atomcab005_1_x_coiled_micro.html

x2 Atomos ATOMBAT001 Battery http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/759489-REG/ATOMOS_ATOMBAT001_ATOMBAT001_Battery.html

x4 SanDisk 240GB Extreme Pro Solid State Drive http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1059851-REG/sandisk_sdssdxps_240g_g25_240gb_extreme_pro_ssd.html

x1 Atomos Shogun 4K HDMI/12G-SDI Recorder and 7" Monitor http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1046387-REG/atomos_atomshogun_shogun_7_4k_hdmi.html

x1 ikan MS21 21.5" SD/HD-SDI Studio Monitor (this is for the clients) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1008050-REG/ikan_ms21_21_5_3g_sdi_studio_monitor.html

x1 Elvid StudioVision Dual 7" Monitor Rackmount (this is for monitoring both cameras) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1041730-REG/elvid_srm_7x2_lt_dual_7_rackmount_monitors.html

x1 Movcam Mini Follow Focus MF-1 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/839027-REG/Movcam_MOV_302_0203_Mini_Follow_Focus_MF_1.html

x1 Cineroid EVF4C Electronic Viewfinder http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/849524-REG/Cineroid_EVF4C_EVF4C_Electronic_Viewfinder.html

x1 Rokinon set 8,10,12,16,24,34,50,85mm (i own 14, 24, 35, 85 but are very used)

x2 Varavon Armor Cage for GH4 & GH3 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1063347-REG/varavon_vamo_gh4gh3cage_armor_pocket_cage_for.html

x1 Panasonic Battery Grip for Lumix GH3 and GH4 Digital Cameras (you never know) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/906999-REG/Panasonic_dmw_bggh3_Battery_Grip_For_GH3.html

x6 SanDisk 64GB Extreme UHS-I Speed Class 3 SDHC Memory Card (Class 10) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1087560-REG/sandisk_sdsdxn_064g_g46_extreme_sdhc_uhs_1_u3.html

x4 Watson DMW-BLF19 Lithium-Ion Battery Pack (7.4V, 1750mAh) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/936825-REG/watson_b_3640_dmw_blf19_lithium_ion_battery_pack.html

x 2 Panasonic DMW-BLF19 Rechargeable Lithium-ion Battery Pack (7.2V, 1860mAh) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/902115-REG/Panasonic_DMW_BLF19_Battery_Pack_For.html

x2 Panasonic GH4 body only http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1028453-REG/panasonic_dmc_gh4kbody_lumix_dmc_gh4_mirrorless_micro.html

I am planning to build up a Shoulder Rig for my GH4. I am pretty close to have all the research done, but there is one thing, that struggles me.

The GH4 will be resting on my shoulder and I have no very nice and easy way to access the main Buttons for setting Expsoure "ISO, Shutter, Iris". I´ve seen an "Handgrip relocator" from Zacuto for the FS700, so you can relocate the Handgrip where ever you want and have still the "One Hand Access".

So my Question would be, if there is some kind of "Third Party Handgrip" or an interesting LANC Solution for the GH4, that i can attach to my normal handgrip?

Thanks

Like new condition. This piece of equipment is CNC milled of aircraft-grade aluminum so it's built to last forever. Asking price: $275 + shipping (O.B.O.). All reasonable offers will be considered.

PayPal and credit cards via PayPal accepted. Thanks for taking a look!

An in-depth, informative review of the cage: http://www.eoshd.com/2011/05/rewo-gh2-cage-full-review

Our B Cam had the original Red handle bar grips only and those ones don't lock well, and slide around. These ones from camtree were rock solid the whole shoot, good build quality, light, and dependable. And the price was quite a bit lower than anything else I could find. Also they work for 15mm as well as 19mm rods. Check em out, definitely makes shooting handheld way easier... and as a bonus sometimes I was able to use it to shoot low level, on the ground type shots and could use the rosettes to adjust my level, like a mini tripod almost. Well worth the cost.

Can be used with the GH4. GH2 as well, though battery access slightly blocked. Bought 2 for my GH3 and GH2, but only need one.

...particularly in THAT thread.

For the price and delivery time there was nothing else that could meet the needs of the shoot that I was planning.P

You'll see on the rig I've got the follwing:

1. Camera
2. TL-MR3040 Portable Battery-Powered router (Give ANY Canon DSLR wifi... muahahahaha!)
3. Magic Arm
4. My Samsung Galaxy S II (Portable 5" monitor? Doesn't get any more portable than my PHONE... with DSLRController of course.)
5. Rode NTG2 (not pictured)
6. Sony PCM-M10 (also not pictured... usually in my pocket)

My kit features counter-weight, C-Cage, and quick-release plate. As well as a top handle.

I seriously don't recommend getting any Veedion rig WITHOUT a quick-release plate. The way the normal mounting bracket works I had to take half the thing apart using an allen key to even get the quick-release installed. If you bought the kit in the link above, then you're looking at an eternal nightmare whenever you want to move your camera. The kit that I bought is the only one I saw, that they have, that comes with this quick-release. So keep that in mind.

The quick-release itself is the cheapest I've ever seen (and, so-far, I've bought nothing BUT cheap camera equipment... besides my elinchroms...) and that's saying a lot. Even on my cheap little tripod you see the quick release is made out of metal. But the one that came with my Veedion is made out of plastic. Sturdy-enough plastic... to be sure... but I'll be looking to replace that plate with something metal the very first chance I get.

Other than those two minor hiccups the rig is quite solid... once you've tuned it. The first two things you'll notice if you buy one are two little keychain-like devices on the ends of each handlebar. I simply unscrewed those and threw them back in the box because they rattled whenever I moved. The next thing is that the bar itself seemed a little unstable for my tastes so I had to tighten it. The Veedion came with a tool for adjusting the mounting bracket, but I needed a different size to adjust the bar for the handle bars. Fortunately I just happened to have a complete set of allen keys laying around.

Once I got everything tightened up the rig was solid.

Like I said the main reasons for me getting this rig were the Quick-release and the counter-weight. The counter-weight really turned out to be a non-issue because it isn't nearly heavy enough to be effective. That said it's better than having nothing there and I think people that buy a multi-rail system like this without any counterweight at all are going to be at a horrible disadvantage.

Overall though I'm pleased with the rig. The purpose of getting the C-Box is to have the handle and extra rails which comes in REALLY handy. That handle at the top is SO much better than the two on the handlebar that I'd love to replace those two with two just like the one on top. But that will have to wait because my next purchase would probably be their excellent follow focus and so-so mattebox.

It's definitely not top of the line... but I was determined to not have a blue DSLR rig... for the money I could find nothing that wouldn't be shipped from Korea. I live in Germany, my rig shipped from Camberly, and I got it overnight. Absolutely the fastest shipping I've ever had for something this big in my entire life, and the customer service was wonderful.

Taking the shoddy quick-release into account, I would give this rig 3/5.

Everything shot with the GH3, all Natural -5, -5, 0, -5, 1080p @ 50Mbs MOV I've used Olympus 12mm f2 and 45mm f1.8. Some shots with ETC mode, mostly handheld with the Aputure MagicRig.

Edit in Premiere Pro CS6, some correction with Fast Color Correction.

Your comments are welcome !

Available on our deals:

1. Complete rig (see included items in post below) price - $1010, as usual includes free shipping to US/CA/W. Europe/AU/NZ
2. Same rig, but not including case - $965, same free shipping
3. Follow focus - $235, same free shipping

Send me personal message (on the left column at http://www.personal-view.com/talks/profile/1/Vitaliy_Kiselev ) if you want to purchase any item here.

I am about to pull the trigger on one of these but first wanted to see if anyone here has used one before. It looks pretty solid and I like the depth of the shoulder mount, though it puts the camera out away from the shooter's body a little more than I would like, but the spring pole should help make that workable.

The thing that I am most curious about is whether counterweighting for balance and then removing the spring pole might make it suitable for walking shots.

Has anyone tried this?

The way we were using the "Beginner's Rig" was different than typical shoulder rig. The camera operator often pressed the shoulder padding into her stomach or chest area, and that combined with 2 hands on the handles, gave us 3 points of contact for stability. I needed to replicate that. What you'll see in the picture below is the final Weightless Rig, which I covered with black gaffers tape. It consists of 3 parts: a cheap quick release plate ($7 on amazon.com), a sponge typically used for painting ($3 at Home Depot), and 2 round/cylindrical wooden sticks ($2 at Home Depot). I tied the sticks to the bottom of the quick release plate with duck tape. I then used scissors to cut holes in the sponge and inserted the sticks. Then taped everything with gaffers tape. The whole thing weighs maybe a 1/2 pound max, and really worked to give us stable shots without adding any weight that a rig typically does with it's metal parts.

I'm sure we're not the first to do something like this, but I hadn't seen anything like it, and thought it might help someone who needs something really super lightweight for stabilizing shots. Hope this is helpful.