https://www.sgo.es/mistika-insight/

It's an app called Magisto (iPhone, iPad, Android, Chrome, etc) that automatically edits your videos into highlight style videos with effects and music. It's certainly not a "pro" application and there's not much you can do to customize the videos it makes but it's perfect for quick and dirty edits of footage that might end up sitting on a hard drive forever.

I personally shoot a lot on my iPhone that I think I'll get around to editing but I never do :-) There is a free versions of the app so it doesn't cost anything to give it a try. The paid tier subscriptions are a little pricey but the free version works well enough.

Which factors are important? How do I get colors as true as possible? Do you guys have any recommendations?

I found that one from EIZO:

• http://www.eizo.com/na/products/foris/fs2434/index.html
• http://www.eizo.com/na/products/flexscan/ev2336w/index.html

Thank you in advance.

The original clip was shot at betwee 6400 to 25600 (it was a mistake and I immediately changed the setting, so I can't remember) on my D7100. Apologies for the shaky cam action, since I was just getting a grab while taking stills. The original MOV is straight out of cam and the mp4 is what PS accomplished.

http://h.micahmedia.com/airshow.zip

The ACR engine is very, very slow. Almost too slow to be practical. And oddly, it only consumed half my processor power while rendering, so it seems to me to be just inefficient. But the results speak for themselves I think.

I've been looking all over the web for forums on how to use my cam (which happens to be a GH3, so ... what mostly) AND to do something with it ... and either there are esoteric and pointedly detailed discussions on the technical bits of shooting OR a highly detailed esoteric discussions of say, specific tasks in DV Resolve ... I'm sure at some point I might find interest in this, but it's not helpful now. It's handy to see that say, several here feel the .MOV on the GH3 is great at lower ISO, but the AVCHD better at higher ISO. Practical and handy.

That said, when I get into Premiere Pro and Speedgrade, where I've been totally lost at the settings to actually make the end result meet what my monitor shows ... I'm not finding a lot of help. I've tried (in SG) various settings from "no calibration" to about everything on that long list ... most things chosen in rendering make for an output that is harshly contrasty/saturated and a lot darker ... except for a couple of the gamma/MOV ones that result in a "thin", bright and washed-out final. No one on the SG forum even responds to requests on things like that, and I can't find any info that isn't contradicted by every other article out there.

I'd just love a practical discussion of what settings, practices, and patterns seem to work smoothly and consistently. Not just shooting or just post, but ... when combined ... make for a smooth workflow from planning through delivery. What kind of rendering settings work best for the files created by this camera? What LUT's or protocols or whatever to look for, what to avoid ... clearly, there are some good folks here at doing this stuff.

ANY comments would be so appreciated!

R. Neil Haugen

P-V.com has become big (enormous!) and almost un-browseable. To access the best treasures within the site, I was thinking that , (rather than the sticky flag you get on forums) a Best of Personal-View could be produced and published as, say, a Pay-Per-View revenue earner on a different site, an e-Book, even a paper book or a yearly mag.

This site seems to use a content management system which I recognise and which would allow an extra field (for us users, a button), which would allow PV-ers to click on a particular post and have that post submitted to, (say, an Editorial team) for mediation and inclusion.

I'd like to see pictures, videos and footnotes from the editor explaining why the item has made it to the Best of Personal-View list.

I have done the best I can do put together a truthful and factual post. I am constantly finding myself explaining my decision why I don't use apple products and often my explanation end up being helpful for the people who hear it in making hardware decisions.

If you find anything inaccurate in this post please let me know and I will correct it. Otherwise take it for what it is, opinion. You may disagree with me and if you do I welcome a discussion on the matter

http://www.wix.com/arturodebernardi/photos#

The standard method for ADR is to replay the video scene back to the actor on a monitor while they try to sync their replacement dialogue with the original recording. However this still somewhat hit and miss because the actor is almost always either lagging or leading their original dialog.

Why? Because they cannot exactly see the precise moment when each word begins until it has begun, at which point they are often late. Alternatively they try to second guess the timing and pre-empt themselves.

Instead of playing back their original scene as a cue give this a try.

Let the actor view the audio waveform of their original dialog on a NLE video monitor... a bigger monitor is obviously better than smaller one.

Minimise the amount of dialog on the screen at any one time to ensure the waveform of each individual word/phrase is clearly defined on the screen. If there is a lot of background noise contaminating the dialog then either remove it or at least minimise it so the individual waveforms for each word are clearly visible with well defined starts and endings.

Let them watch the screen while you loop the section of dialog several times over. Point to the cursor as it moves horizontally across the screen so they can see as the cursor hits the start of each section of waveform representing each spoken word of the orignal recording.

As they watch the cursor cycle across the screen they will quickly identify which section of waveform corresponds to which word they're hearing and thus deliver each word the moment the cursor just reaches the start of each section of the corresponding waveform.

With a little practice they should now find it easier to achieve fairly accurate sync and they can then concentrate more on the delivery and emotion.

Try it yourselves. You should find it is much easier to achieve accurate sync than by simply watching an onscreen video of the original take.

Of course capturing good sound on location is always preferable.