If there is enough interest, I can begin to expand the profiles to support more video modes and various hacks beyond Moon T8.

I created a profile for each ISO setting, including secondary settings for the ISO bugged modes (up to 2500 ISO for those) ("clean" is normal, "dirty" is with the bug in case you forget to fix the problem and shoot with the ISO bug)

These profiles were created using the Smooth film mode at -2 -2 -2 -2, though they will probably still work with other modes. What is being picked up here is mostly sensor ISO noise since Moon T8's bitrate is so high.

The end result is that I have been able to recover about 1 - 1.5 stops of extra detail in the shadows on my shots as opposed to it looking like a total mess of noise. If you shoot at crazy high ISO settings, it can't make a shot at 12,800 ISO look like 200 ISO, but as long as your footage is reasonable, you can greatly expand the usable dynamic range of the camera and color grading is that much better.

These profiles should be used FIRST before doing any other processing such as grading, sharpening, scaling, or color correction. Etc...

The 1080p24 profiles seem to work fine on footage shot in variable mode, for example, if you use the 80% mode for slight slow motion.

Here is a link to an Imgur gallery showing what the profiles are capable of: Gallery

Download links:

1080p24 24H

1080p24 24L

1080p24 EX24H (Ex. Tele Convert Mode)

720p60 SH

https://www.magiclantern.blog/2020/01/12/video-noise-and-the-origins-of-our-universe/

Conservative amount of denoise to avoid plastic look and keep image texture after denoise.

Camera settings:

Standard
Sharpness +1 (also works for sharpness 0)
Noise reduction -5

Two versions:

Without shadow/highlight curves
With shadow/highlight curves, S+3/H-3 (the maximum amount before image gets ugly) (can be used also for S+2/H-2)

Download in posts below:

I was surprised cause that it produced noise in both circumstances, we had illuminated using two points of light and to try although I did not use other profiles, I changed momentarily only for to see the scene behavior of the noise and in the other modes there was noise. I get a lot of attention because this camera handles sensitivity well and I made a short time inside a bus with very low light, in fact we only used a light that came from the roof of the same bus and a small LED that I used for filling using more quirky ISO's around 4,000 and the noise was minimal.

Is there any reason for it? I let a clip of the short with a gradding.

Thanks in advance.

Two options for 4k denoise:

1 - use noise reduction "-5" in camera and use neatvideo in post production for a better quality denoise.

2 - use noise reduction "0" in camera and avoid neatvideo in post-production for a faster workflow.

Which one to choose?

I have already MXL FR-300 but I'm pretty disappointed with it. When I boost gain enough so that I can pick sounds with high sensitivity from 1,5m - 2m, there is a lot self-noise in the signal.

To ensure that there wasn't problem with e.g. my cables, I did another test with Electro-Voice RE50 and there was absolutely zero noise. I know this is different mic since it's dynamic but atleast it proves that the connections are not the reason.

At http://www.dvcreators.net/shotgun-shootout/ there is good comparison between shotgun microphones. It seems that there is really big differences between mic self-noises. E.g. AUDIO TECHNICA AT897 has pretty loud noise, I'd say that sound clip is unusable. But e.g. SENNHEISER MKH-416 has virtually no noise at all and the tone in her voice is excellent.

I don't understand why anyone would buy e.g. AUDIO TECHNICA AT897 ? Is that much self-noise really acceptable to someone?

Anyway I'd like to get some recommendations about shotgun microphones. Based on the test above MKH-416 is a winner for me but that test doesn't cover everything. Requirements:

• Low self-noise
• Can pick sound from 1,5 - 2m away
• Good tone
• Price range <1000$

Is it a common thing with GH2 at low ISO to have noticeable noise in mid to dark areas? Is it just a case of using neat video on every shot? I definitely notice a improvement of actual pic quality with the hacks, just the noise is annoying & lets the quality of the picture down for me.

Is there a hack that reduces noise over others? Many thanks

When I connect these mics to XLR ports with Rode's XLR adapter, there's an annoying signal sound, it's not hiss/humm, something else. When I use the 3.5 connection on the X/Y adapter of H6 with plugin power, this noise is still there.

ATR3350 has its own battery, so I don't think it's about phantom power (however I shut the power down). Also I realized when I touch the USB connection of H6 at right with my finger, the noise reduces (really weird). Same happens when I touch to the metal plate on the front face of the device as well. Somehow, my hand is stopping the noise.

When I connect these mics to Zoom H1, there's no noise. I contacted with Zoom product service, had a reply to my email, then they stopped talking with me. "Kind reminders" didn't work.

My only options for now are these devices and for a long time I'll not be able to afford a wireless transmitter. Here you can find a sound record demonstrating my problem, sorry for my weak English and moaning voice :) http://1drv.ms/1PWQCIh

Any solutions?

Any clue?

I dont know if its just me... but I see a lot of noise and not such great quality especially on the C4K madden video which is weird. All shots are straight from the camera.. no color grading.. I know the editing and shots arent so great... but i just wanted to upload these to get your opinion... I purchased my gh4 off ebay through what seems to be a camera shop's account and they were running a promotion on the GH4 for $1,399.99 and I am using a Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5 - 5.6 lens. Please let me know what you think... is it fine and im just overreacting? should I try to return the camera to get a new one?

MADDEN (C4K, 24p):

Anyone experiencing the same problem? Might be a faulty sensor from Panasonic? I am primarily shooting on Cine-D profile, no additional adjustments, but the problem is on Standard profile as well.

My iDynamic and iResolution is OFF.

I am really frustrated, I was expecting a better video that this noisy ants from GH4, anyone please help?

Also I'd love some input from others on colours and noise ... This was shot using a cinelike D mode with everything set to 0 and edited in Prem Pro 2014 , If memory serves I was on 800 ASA which is high but I expected better results for the noise ... The "black" bars are not the same black as the black surrounding them on my monitor... I output the clip using the factory preset for Vimeo which presumably is RGB as opposed to 709, so surely the black bars should match the black on my screen?? (the bars are a shade lighter)

Aside from the focus issue I'd be very grateful for comments / advice / guidance on noise especially in the blacks which are always a bit crappy ..

Thanks

Alan

Has anyone used both of these? Or developed some kind of comparison video?

highest possible careful tweaked settings for very high image quality with enough stability for short takes up to 5 - 8 minutes.

Improved for best low light noise and textures in all modes, perfect for high iso, and excelent image texture in good light.

Arri Alexa image quality inside the GH2, (just missing the Alexa dynamic range of course)

default version:

*SH and H slots are better for good light in low iso and for more detailed scenes in good light

*SH slot is higher quality and more stable with manual focus legacy lenses

*H slot more stable with native lenses with electronic contacts

*H slot also better for use with image stabilization

*hbr is better in good light than in low light

*default version is more stable in SH and H 720p and in HBR than the boson version

*24p 24H and 24L are the same of boson

*great quality in all modes

boson version:

*SH slot improved for low light textures and noise

*H slot better for good light in low iso, better for more complex details scenes in good light

*H slot is more stable for native lenses

*HBR does the low light / good light balance automaticaly for better noise in low light or better detail in good light

*24p has same noise quality in both good light or low light for constant image texture this keeps same random noise in all light conditions, good for intercut with SH

*a little less stable in 720p and HBR than the default version

*best quality in all modes

seta = workhorse default

setb = workhorse boson

setc = workhorse default lower datarate in SH and H for more stability in 720p and hbr

setd = workhorse boson lower datarate in SH and H for more stability in 720p and hbr

sete = same as seta, but the 24H and 24L are optimized to deliver sharpest image for steady complex detail scenes, it does the automatic adaptation in 24p for low light noise or good light steady complex detail scenes

setf = same as setc, but the 24H and 24L are optimized to deliver sharpest image for steady complex detail scenes, it does the automatic adaptation in 24p for low light noise or good light steady complex detail scenes

all tests performed in NTSC with the Sandisk 32GB SDHC Class 10 U1 45Mbps card.

transcode the original mts files to Apple ProRes 422 full range using the 5DtoRGB free software before editing to avoid the diagonal pattern rain problem. Try the ProRes HQ, normal and LT versions to perceive the best balance between quality/file size.

as of september 05 2014 all versions are modified flowmotion 2.02 with extensive careful tweaking

please donate to www.personal-view.com

I am the proud owner of the D7100 and I don't know if you were desperate as I was while watching first movie tests recorded with this camera. You guess it: Horizontal noise, or bending if you prefer.

Of course I tried different picture styles for D7000 and they looked terrible because the sensor is not the same. The D7000's chip doesn't have same banding issues as Toshiba's on D7100.

So, I decided to experiment by myself with PictureControlUtility and create my own style that can satisfy my needs while shooting the video with my awesome D7100. My picture style can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3jwjilqgqtf4sgi/D7l00K.rar

It's based on Neutral pic style. With this look I can go up to ISO 4000 and to enjoy image quality, where grain looks more film like and less digital. It has more contrast than usual Neutral style, BUT less horizontal noise, and in my case I can recover dark parts very easily in DaVinci Resolve.

Anyway, I open this topic because I would like, as many others I guess, to see from other videographers their custom D7100 Picture style(s), to share it here with the other users as an alternative for shooting with less 'bending' headache :)

Cheers!

Does the GH3--or could my lens--have a motor that runs even when the camera is in manual mode (even for stills), set on manual focus, and is simply sitting there, pointed at a surface with a constant exposure?

I've got the OIS switch turn off on the lens, as well as every camera function I can think of.

The only time that the sound goes away is when the camera is in "Scene" mode--but as soon as a scene setting is "set," the noise comes back.

I have updated the camera to the 1.2 firmware.

I've never worked with a DSLR before, and I'm a bit of a newbie in general (most interested in video). Is this normal?

Any help appreciated!

Thanks!

I keep getting noise on these files. Any tips? SanDisk 32gb 95mb/s Extreme Pro 24p cinema Smooth all -2 24H f - 7.1 iso 160

But there is a problem!! :-O

In the attached file you can see a test screenshoot (from a video frame) where in the underexposed areas (like the blue) there are some noise (but not much) and many lines, like small banding... this at 400 iso...

why this? IT's a D7100 problmem? Anyone have this issue?

• The basics of audio repair and restoration, and understanding “the tools of the trade.”
• Using a spectrogram to identify audio problems.
• Expanding efficiency in de-noising, including reducing broadband noise, hum and tonal noise, and dialogue de-noising.
• Removing intermittent noises and gaps, clicks and pops, clipping, and reverb.
• Techniques for exporting and delivering audio.
• Tips from industry leaders, including time-saving advice and guidance through specific modules and plug-ins.

http://downloads.izotope.com/guides/iZotope_AudioRepair.pdf

or

https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/audio-repair-with-rx-3/id716947330

Thanks to every workers and tester for your job.

I see lot of post about Mjpeg vs avchd, the majority of people say avchd better than Mjpeg. But today I'm not sure...

I was making a shot test between 24h/HBR/Mjpeg with "Driftwood Cluster X series 3:│moon T7" The scene is very contrasted with highlights and black.

I prefer Mjpeg...!!! Because the noise is the same and I see more details and more sharpen.

I want know if somebody testing Mjpeg and say the same thing.

25p and 2K possible? with the option Mpjeg fps of ptools?

The time limite?

Mjpeg in 2K 25p no limited time, It 's dream for me.

Thanks for your answers!

The original clip was shot at betwee 6400 to 25600 (it was a mistake and I immediately changed the setting, so I can't remember) on my D7100. Apologies for the shaky cam action, since I was just getting a grab while taking stills. The original MOV is straight out of cam and the mp4 is what PS accomplished.

http://h.micahmedia.com/airshow.zip

The ACR engine is very, very slow. Almost too slow to be practical. And oddly, it only consumed half my processor power while rendering, so it seems to me to be just inefficient. But the results speak for themselves I think.

Today I was testing with Tiffen Standard Hot Mirror. I will try to post some results in the coming days but two things jumped out at me. Black fabrics were contaminated with or without the hot mirror and as usual were also a bit noisy which is something this camera suffers from. The noise I can deal with in post, especially when I capture a nice accurate profile of it on set. Makes the job in post that much easier.

But I'm curious what people have experienced with IR solutions. In my arsenal, I currently have a Tiffen hot mirror, Tiffen IRND 1.5, 1.8, 2.1 as well as Pancro IRND 1.2 and 1.5. I have only tested with the Tiffen filters. Haven't tried my Pancros yet.

I also need to test more materials under various lighting.

I'd love to hear from people who have done this testing already so I can compare notes.

Panasonic says its technology increases camera sensitivity by one whole stop. This means its cameras will theoretically produce the same level of noise at ISO 1600 as Bayer sensor-equipped cameras do at ISO 800

http://panasonic.co.jp/corp/news/official.data/data.dir/2013/02/en130204-6/en130204-6.html

Sounds very promising...

For a long time, I've shot videos with any photo camera that I'd have around, not taking care about shutter speed, fps, etc. After some months of saving and research, I decided to go for a GH3. I feel now confident enough to show some of my work to the world (via Vimeo).

Last week I shot a movie in a hospital. Not every space was well lit, and after editing and some basic color grading, I realized there's some kind of noise (or blocks, I'm not sure) on the darker areas (specially black plastic chairs in waiting rooms).

Technicalities: GH3+12-35 f2,8 , MOV at 25fps and 50fps, ISO not higher than 1600, Premiere on Mac.

My question is: is there any serious noise reduction technique in Premiere? Photoshop is excellent at noise reduction, and I am really surprised that everybody is skipping Premiere when talking about N-R, and talking about 3rd party apps.

Please find below a link to the video.

Thank you in advance for your answers!

P.