From the tests I did, I thought I'd have to grade to match, but I didn't do an any CC and I think they match just fine.

Who can tell what shots where shot with which camera? I can't! Basically I love the functionality, robustness, and cleaner iso on the GH3....if it makes video as good as a hacked GH2, I'm okay with the price. Love having both!

What I need is headphone jack and stop doing double sound for unimportant interviews, so the d5200 is out of the question for me.

d7100 pros The plus is the extra superb photo mode that is great for some stopmotion project I happen to have sometimes. (Communicates with dragon frame) The low gama profiles that combined with a external recorder could develop into something interesting if I wanted to. Low Moire (as far as I've seen) Big Sensor Nice nikon zoom lenses with aperture ring that work with every camera. Aps Sensor 1.5x

cons The sadness of not getting a swivel screen and the unhackability of the camera nature (a big thing). No timelapse, No silent shutter so shutter wear will be a concern. 730g

Gh3 pros The video camera wholeness, The screen, and evf, silent shutter and timelapse mode. posibility of combining it with the metabones adapter to make it 1.3x (we would need to wait and see if it is worth it) (add 400$) Crazzy hacking possibilities Nice to have as a compliment to the bmcc, same adapters and lenses. (possible bcam perhaps) 550g

cons A little moire has been reported Smaller sensor than my gh1 !!!!! need to buy metabones Price is with some big boys. No stopmotion DragonFrame control.

I would like to know members opinion here,

questions for the d7100 Does the camera has histogram with manual leica lenses???? this is really important Does anyone know if the hdmi output is 25p or 50i for pal land or is it 60i like the d5200??? and 422 ???? Do the low isos of the d7100 also have so much noise.????

thanks,

Andrés

I was reading the other day about de-clicking old Nikon lenses, and people's comments about how they'd like to slightly tweak the iris "on the fly" to adjust for minor light changes. Since I have a photographer background, the first thing that came to my mind is "Why would you want to do that? Doing so will change the depth of field!". Ok. Tweaking can be interpreted as "less than a click", that is, less than 1 stop (or 1/2 in some brands). But still, my question to you guys is "Why?" Is it because it is the only basic parameter (Aperture/SSpeed/ISO) that you can change on the fly, and not via camera menus? (You wouldn't want to change the SSpeed anyway.... And for the sake of this discussion, let's pretend we are on the less noisy side of the ISO values). What are the benefits of changing Iris? If you could decide to change Iris vs ISO (which takes me back to "Panasonic: Auto-ISO in Manual Movie Mode, por favor...!!!"), which one would you choose?

mpgxsvcd was first

• Connecting to PC via Wi-Fi by inputting the computer name (the NetBIOS name for Apple Mac computers) is enabled. • 1920 x 1080, 60p[NTSC]/50p[PAL], 28Mbps mode is added in the video recording option of [MP4]. • Speed of AF, consecutive shooting performance of AFC is enhanced in use with H-PS14042 and H-PS45175. *Please update the firmware of the lens to its latest version. • The monitor continues to display images during HDMI output even while [Auto LVF/Monitor OFF] is set. • Instability of shutter interval during interval shooting is improved. • When [Shutter AF] is OFF, operation is changed not to enlarge the image while using [Pinpoint AF] when even if shutter button is half-pressed. • Performance of image signal processing is enhanced during video file playback.

from Pete Berry

gashô

http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/index2.html

Notes:

1. Connecting to PC via Wi-Fi by inputting the computer name (the NetBIOS name for Apple Mac computers) is enabled.
2. 1920 x 1080, 60p[NTSC]/50p[PAL], 28Mbps mode is added in the video recording option of [MP4].
3. Speed of AF, consecutive shooting performance of AFC is enhanced in use with H-PS14042 and H-PS45175. *Please update the firmware of the lens to its latest version.
4. The monitor continues to display images during HDMI output even while [Auto LVF/Monitor OFF] is set.
5. Instability of shutter interval during interval shooting is improved.
6. When [Shutter AF] is OFF, operation is changed not to enlarge the image while using [Pinpoint AF] when even if shutter button is half-pressed.
7. Performance of image signal processing is enhanced during video file playback.

http://www.eoshd.com/content/9869/will-we-see-a-new-professional-panasonic-gh-series-camera-at-nab

I guess it is hacked GH2 and GH3 that is the best call. The Black Magic are not available for a long time. Would be interesting to get some perspective here.

Leif

I tried too into my Laptop... I have a Lenovo T410i O.S : W7 64bit Professional CPU : i5 RAM : 8 Gb GPU : NVIDIA 3100M HDD : OCZ Vertex II 128 GB

but the results are not so good too...

So my question is.. Is there anybody that has tried something similar...?and what are the results..?

I 'm thinking to update my Network Media Player or my Laptop...but i'd like to be sure that i'll have no more problems... May be with the new PopCornHour A400 (with a Sigma SMP8911 dual-core CPU) this files play smoothly.. but i do not like to spend money and having the same problems...

Thank you for sharing your experience here..

Have a good days.

windsurf.

Same for raw photos on cam, although when imported into lightroom it autocorrects and the image looks great. How do I get a neutral flat video profile like the GH2 on the GH3? What setting is everyone using? Ended up reaching for the GH2 to shoot instead today.

Tempted to leave the cam on standard portrait mode with contrast dialed down only as saturation seems to be the main cause of this plasticy look. Whats everyones thoughts on this?

thanks

Thanks.

For a long time, I've shot videos with any photo camera that I'd have around, not taking care about shutter speed, fps, etc. After some months of saving and research, I decided to go for a GH3. I feel now confident enough to show some of my work to the world (via Vimeo).

Last week I shot a movie in a hospital. Not every space was well lit, and after editing and some basic color grading, I realized there's some kind of noise (or blocks, I'm not sure) on the darker areas (specially black plastic chairs in waiting rooms).

Technicalities: GH3+12-35 f2,8 , MOV at 25fps and 50fps, ISO not higher than 1600, Premiere on Mac.

My question is: is there any serious noise reduction technique in Premiere? Photoshop is excellent at noise reduction, and I am really surprised that everybody is skipping Premiere when talking about N-R, and talking about 3rd party apps.

Please find below a link to the video.

Thank you in advance for your answers!

P.

Thanks for your help!

P.

Would love some direction on this. You can hear it in this video at around the three second mark - small clicking sounds.

Here's link to my footage. You'll see the issue more clearly on the right side of the image.

I thought the videos were good in the past. However, the lack of image stabilization, accurate Continuous Auto Focus, and a good wide aperture zoom lens were always mentioned as limitations with my videos.

Finally with the GH3 I think we are over that hurdle. The video below was shot entirely hand held(No tripod or monopod at all) by 1 person in continuous Auto Focus mode with the 35-100mm F2.8 lens. I also only used one battery and still had some juice left after more than 4 hours of filming.

I would say that the focus was spot on for pretty much every clip. Even the focus pull at the beginning from the guy’s Ipad to his son climbing worked perfectly. That was a one take shot. If I didn’t get it right I couldn’t ask the guy and the climber to go back and do it again.

I simply slid my finger from the Ipad to the climber on the camera’s LCD screen. I think it gave the video a very nice effect.

I had other lenses with me like the 25mm F1.4 and the 14mm F2.5. However, I never felt like I needed them. At F2.8 I was almost never above ISO 3200 even with the darker lighting they used for this round.

I think the IS was terrific in the 35-100mm lens as well. Yes I would rather have had the OMD’s 5 axis stabilization. However, I think this is the next best thing. Try holding a camera up for 4 hours straight with a 200mm 35mm equivalent focal length and see how shaky it is without good IS. I also like to take images while I record video and instantly upload them to the web so that spectators can follow along with the action with real-time pictures. With the GH3 I put it in the real time wireless upload mode and shot at 1080p @ 60 FPS in the stills mode. That way I could take stills during video and instantly upload them.

The only issue I had with that is that every time you press the shutter button to take a still it will initiate a focus adjustment. That actually made the focus go off more times than not. After noticing this I just decided to save images directly from the videos in playback mode(Press pause during video playback and then save an image). The camera will upload those images in real time as well.

I have tested the quality of images recorded during video recording and images saved during playback and they are indistinguishable in my opinion.

I also mount my GoPro 3 Black on top of the GH3 and shoot simultaneous wide angle 720p @ 120 FPS video. However, I scrapped all of the GoPro footage because it simply was not up to the caliber of the GH3 video. It is great for super slow motion but the 120 FPS mode indoors produces so much noise that it would not mesh well with the excellent video from the GH3.

I also was impressed with how well the youtube encoding turned out. I normally post to Vimeo as well because it is better for compression. However, in this case I thought the 1080p youtube encode looked great.

I didn’t alter the video at all. I did not do any color grading or post processing on it. I shot in scenery mode with -2 Contrast, +2 sharpness, Zero Color, and -5 Noise Reduction and simply pieced the videos together with a cheap($50) program called AVS Video Editor.

It was really nice to be able to produce the video with the footage as it was shot in camera and still get what I thought was a decent result.

There were plenty of other professional film crews there with much more sophisticated equipment. The little 11 year old girl in the last clip is probably the 2nd best female climber in the country(At 12 years old) and she has a film crew that follows her around everywhere she goes. I wonder how much better their footage looks?

So what do you think? Is the GH3 finally the camera that would make you put down the traditional video camera if you shoot both stills and video?

I just got my GH3 today, and of course the first thing I had to do was this test. I threw the GH1 in there out of curiosity since I had one lying around. It looks like the GH series hasn't had much progress in the highlights, but the shadow detail has gotten much better. The GH1 and GH2 were hacked while the GH3 was using the stock 50mbps IPB setting. I chose this over the Intra because of reports that it held up better due to a more efficient compression algorithm (I don't know though since I've only had the camera for a day).

I used the cameras' spot meters on the big square gray patch (which is supposedly 18% gray), but I think the GH1 was a little hotter than the other two cameras when correctly exposed. Base ISO was used on all three cameras to achieve maximum DR. In post, I raised or lowered each image by one stop increments with Colorista II to compensate for the increased or lowered exposure levels. Hope someone finds this as useful as I have!

We just shot a short film with the GH3 and it is finished now. It might be interesting for you guys to see what the GH3 can do. The film was shot over 2.5 days. I added some details in the film's description. Make sure to download the film for full 1920x1080 resolution, as I don't have a paid Vimeo account.

Let me know what you think also! Questions will be answered as well.

Link:

Watch on Vimeo for HD and download the file for a better 1920x1080p version without Vimeo's compression!

I was being stupid and tried to remove the SD card that got stuck in the card slot of the 3 year old GH1 by a little force and a pin. The camera is now dead and the Panny service center told that the main board has been damaged and need replacement. It will cost in excess of $350, but parts are not available either. There is no way I am going spend that much on a GH1 now. So I am in need of a camera and need it before 10th March before I go on vacation.

GH1 was my first serious camera and it was Vitaliy's hack that kindled this passion. I have the following lenses now:

Lumix 14-140mm Lumix 20mm Samyang 85mm MF (Nikon) Nikon 50 mm 1.8 MF Vivitar 55mm 2.8 Macro MF (Nikon)

I am a casual shooter and shoots mainly family, nature etc., especially while on holidays. I was sold out by the GH1 videos and I have almost used the camera 80% for videos. Now that is not to say I don't use it for stills. Well, stills are not so much fun with the GH1 (peace, in a more capable hands they sure can be). Of the lenses I use, I almost always use 14-140 for video and by virtue of being having AF and myself being lazy, use it for stills as well. This a not a very ideal solution. I had always wanted a quality lens that can can do AF, video etc. day/night. The MF lenses while excellent, had me working more and I always found myself missing the fun while in the middle of changing lens, adapter and doing manual focus etc.. All this combined made sure the GH1 was mainly a video camera. I often wondered changing format and going for a Nikon or Canon for stills and have some AF lenses for them. The bulk and costs kept me at bay. Where I live the m4/3 is almost unheard of. Even the Panasonic service engineer had not heard of the GH1 when I spoke to him. So Panasonic lenses may be of little resale value here. So that was another factor in looking at m4/3 solution as a replacement camera.

Having been an avid follower of these forums, I took a break for almost an year as I was trying to learn other things like Adobe CS6 etc. Now the sudden demise of GH1 made me search and there was this GH3 with almost universal praise. I hoped the GH3 would solve my problems with the still photography if were to mate it with a good AF lens like the 12-35 or 35-100 from Panny. In a moment of excitement I back-ordered a GH3 body+ battery + 2 year B&H SquareTrade warranty for about $1550. The lenses have to wait for now. However now there is a possibility that the camera may not be delivered by 10th March deadline...

It is then that I read about the Olympus OMD EM-5. I had totally missed the noise around this one. The IBIS and image quality seemed quite a match for the MF lenses that I had (was planning on a Samyang 35mm cine lens, but now the budget is gone). Video seem inferior to Gh3. I also feel it may not be comfortable to hold the body with big lenses sans the grip. The camera is available right now and cheaper and...I could not make up my mind.

So I am now looking at options as an after thought..I think I can change my order with the B&H.. I would appreciate suggestions what would be a best camera GH3, OMD EM-5 or any other. Any suggestions welcome.. Thanks in advance

Anyone get the GH3 to connect to your PC for WIFI photo transfer? Anyone get a Mac to work?

On behalf of the Gaffa Group, I am proud to announce that we beat the Personal-View.com team to the first proper, official GH3 hack. Our team has now been testing this hack extensively, with some really exciting results. We estimate that the chance of bricking the camera by applying this patch is less than a tenth of a percent, and therefore feel that it is finally safe to let it out to the general public.

Prerequisites:

First you have to make sure you have one of the compatible firmwares for your GH3. The list of compatible firmwares are:

• Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH3 preproduction firmware v0.4
• Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH3 firmware v1.0

Check in the camera menus and make sure your firmware is one of those. We also believe there is a good chance the hack will continue to work, as is, with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH3 firmware v1.1 when it is released. Beyond that it is hard to predict to what extent Panasonic will try to hinder this hack from working.

Problems this hack addresses

• sloppy SD-card bay door

Installation

We threw everything we had on this problem to find a way to install this hack with the regular PTool method and using SD-cards, but all work was to no avail. The breakthrough came when we saw we could go back a few generations of technology, all the way back to tape, and install this hack through the use of one of the GH3s many cleverly hidden tape decks.

See video:

First you have to go to the hardware store and get some black electricians tape for the installation. While you are there, also pick up taPTool v1.0 for your system if you don't have taPTool already. Now, since the electricians tape is for full-frame systems, you need to cut it down to the GH3 standard MFT crop-factor of two, like shown in the video. Now, the best suited tape deck on the GH3 is for some strange reason placed right on the outside of the SD-card slot, uncomfortably close to the opening. Just pin the cropped tape down over the crossing ridges, apply some light pressure, and then close the SD-card slot cover door. Wait about one second and check if the patch was installed correctly. You should notice if everything went well almost immediately.

Future plans

• Fix for floppy camera strap ends
• Continuous EVF mode
• Additional on-lens letterbox formats, (CinemaScope 2.35:1, ++)

Final note

We would love to hear back from you guys on your experiences with the "Electricians Bliss" patch, and if you want us to continue with hacks for the GH3, remember to donate! To keep things simple, the Gaffa Group has joined forces with Personal-View.com, so just donate using the regular channels.

Is it worth the big mark up as a video dedicated machine? Maybe. If you shoot a lot of stills as well....Yes! All in all, I'm loving this camera.

The things that are huge for me:
1. Cleaner at higher iso.
2. dials and buttons for everything.
3. touch lcd zoom for focus even with hdmi monitor (drove me crazy that I couldn't do this on the gh2, I was always unplugging to check critical focus).
4. internal battery lasts forever...no need for heavy external battery if you have a few.
5. Battery compartment is not covered by every qr plate ever made.
6. much improved lcd
7. I don't know if it's just my gh2 lens mount, but this seems sturdier. I don't need a rod mounted lens support for all my third party lenses when using a follow focus.
8. feels better in the hand.
9. Unhacked quality is great....I waste so much time worrying about which hack to use for which shoot on my gh2, and while I love the quality, it's nice to know I'm getting great quality on this without a bunch of research and time and bugs.
10. 1080p60 opens big doors creatively.

In this test, watch how far I can push the darkest midtones to bring all those stones and rocks underneath the surface back in a really nice way. Even though the grading gave it a crispy, contrasty look, you can look at the ice blocks that we didn't loose too much information in the highlights. We didn't loose too much in the shadows either, but a little bit more though we darkened the surface so much.

The grade was made in Adobe After Effects only using curves.