An exceptional price/quality ratio PC screen!

4 important specifications cached my attention:

• IPS screen with wide viewing angle
• 100% sRGB color gamut spectrum coverage
• Flicker free
• Blue light filter

Out of the box the screen came well calibrated, with a small Delta-E variation of color. After a manual calibration, it approaches perfection (except for the typical brighter black of IPS screens).

The "Flicker Free" and "Blue Light Filter" functions are very important for the eyes, especially for long working periods of time in front of the computer. I did not encounter problems related to ghosting or clouding, the image uniformity of my sample being impeccable. It doesn’t make much sense to comment much about IPS technology, whoever is interested in image editing, knows why to choose an IPS screen in favor of other technologies on the market.

The screen is elegant, with thin edges on the side and top and the construction is made of good quality plastic. The foot is made of metal and offers an inclination from -5 to 20 degrees.

In conclusion, for my needs (image editing) it’s an excellent screen at a very decent price. I recommend it with confidence!

Well, the footage shot with the LEDs was fine, no green bands. But the 100-watt bulbs weren't as bright. So, it seems to me that I should use more powerful lights, and I'm thinking CFLs equivalent to 200-watt incandescents.

So my question is: what color temperature should I look for? Floods or standard configurations (for use with white-umbrella stands)? Do they make dimmable high-power CFLs, so I can adjust the lighting more delicately? (And if I did this dimming thing, would there be problems like flicker or banding with my GH2?)

Sorry if this has been asked before, but the info I found was in many different threads,and I figured, let's assemble it all in one post/thread.

flicker

free plugin for VirtualDub MSU Deflicker

There are plenty for sure, inviting you to add more and expand PV's knowledge macrocosmos within the flow of love XD

Of course all manual settings: ISO, APERTURE, and SHUTTER Using an old manual Nikkor 24mm so setting f-stop on the lens itself Using the D600 internal intervalometer Shooting raw

Unfortunately the only thing that got missed was the camera was accidentally set to auto white balance. However, I selected a specific white balance in Camera Raw in After Effects and that should apply to all of the images. Would auto white balance affect exposure?

The only other possibility I can think of is that I had a mild variable-ND on the lens. I doubt it would have moved but maybe it was shifting somehow with each exposure?

I've got some more trouble shooting to do but thought I'd ask to see if anyone has had a similar issue. I haven't had this issue with previous timelapses I've done with Canon 60D and 5Ds so I'm concerned it's an issue specific to the Nikon D600 but I guess it could be user error too.

Thoughts?

Oh, and they advertise it with "easy to use". It´s not. (well maybe when it´s set up and properly functioning; it´s easy to zoom, pan & tilt and make presets, however when you need to dig into the menus you need their equally abysmal manual) It´s the most counter-intuitive piece of equipment I´ve used.

__http_://vimeo.com/46113751

I got a slight flickering oscillation when filming still shooting on tripod ! ( as you can see in the video below) the flickering is not constant , sometimes slower sometimes faster

I did a video in ETC mode , to make more evident the bug , which is also present in normal mode , it shooted on a strong tripod , no wind (or earthquake LOL)

this happens to me only with pana zoom lenses I own ( 14-45mm OIS and 12-35mm OIS) not at all with manual lenses

I tried OIS on/off , AF manual , C and S , different film mode , shutter , aperture , I tried to change all the settings in the menu , nothing is changed

I don't think is about hack coz I tried to install a few , the only thing I didn't try is to install original stock firmware

This issue still also in photographic mode , still already in preview mode ( I mean also when you're not in recording mode)

When you make little movement with OIS "on" shaking stopping , then when you back to fixed shot after a few seconds it comeback again , momentanely shaking stopped happens also during manual focusing on MF mode

with 14-45mm it is happens only when I point the camera at the top (check out video below).

with 12-35mm almost always also in horizontal position ( I filmed 10min still shot , the shaking stopped after 3 minutes )

I dunno it sounds like a OIS or AF issues , but does not explain why he does it with both panasonic lenses with same bug but with a different behavior one from another , so I'm afraid that is about GH2 body .

I do not remember if this bug has always done , because I have not paid attention.

it's really hard for me to figure it out and explain well to you ,also cause I'm not speaking English very well.

if any of You ll'be so kind to do same experiments to see if it happens,or have any suggestion It would be extremely grateful

thanks for your time

password: flicker

I've taken this out of page 6 the GF2 Stable settings Thread http://personal-view.com/talks/discussion/2321/gf2-stable-settings/p6

GF2 is a strange camera in Video mode. Panasonic say in their manual that Flicker Red (Flicker reduction) when set to 1/50 >1/120 in video mode will lock the shutter. I agree from the tests i have done in bright daylight that it does, however it appears SOMETHING is changing when large amounts of light or dark is introduced quickly, it seems to have a trigger point. If you use a manual lens, set aperture, use an ND or VariND and set iso to 100, it appears you can shoot and lock shutter between 1/50 and 1/120.

In dark situations where the camera needs gain, i think the iso will follow a similar pattern, jumping at trigger points, but shutter and iso will be locked at what you set it to unless you pan the camera to a very bright or very dark area, this seems to trigger some change but not enough to correct exposure. Weird. I throw this out there for discussion, as there seems to be conflicting opinions on this and no real explanations on what the camera is doing.