Newest deals are in the lasts posts of the topic.

Available for now coupons

• $5/50

Main page - https://sale.aliexpress.com/__pc/2019Mid_YearSale.htm

Coupons center - https://sale.aliexpress.com/__pc/618_coupon_center.htm

We have lots and lots of deals at http://www.personal-view.com/deals

I frequently change contents of this post. It is good idea to follow this topic.

Nebula Gimbals April sale.

Prices:

• Nebula 5100 Slant - $999 $779 https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/17241/nebula-5100-slant-gimbal
• Nebula 5100 a7 Slant - $699 $649 https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/19241/nebula-5100-a7-slant-gimbal
• Nebula 4100 Slant - $599 $499 http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/18538/nebula-4100-slant-gimbal
• Nebula 4300 Gimbal - $999 $779 https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/17486/nebula-4300-5-axis-gimbal-upgrade-of-the-nebula-4200
• Nebula 5300 Gimbal - $1199 $979 https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/17493/nebula-5300-dual-hand-gimbals-for-pro-cameras
• Nebula Follow Focus - $650 $499 https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/17257/filmpower-nebula-ff-for-gimbals

Shipping: Price already includes express shipping for US/Canada/UK/Australia&NZ/Western Europe. Contact for any other regions.
I want to buy this monitor.

Lanparte new rig

http://www.adorama.com/ICA7D.html?emailprice=t&sub=News&utm_term=Other&utm_campaign=Other

Do not consider it big, but may be someone just had been waiting for solid body.

If some of them do not work, leave a note, so we could correct this.

This is permanent topic that will contain current m43 bodies deals.

All actual deals are located at the end of the topic.

All actual deals reside in the end of the topic

Send me message if something is not actual.

Most actual are at the bottom.

Any answers, including specific things or just gear categories are ok.

I shot the still images with the GH3 at our local auto show. I also recorded the audio with the GH3's internal mic. There were a few pop's with the "P"s so I need to invest in a better external mic.

Here is the text from the video. And the links that go with it.

Lease Calculator http://www.leaseguide.com/calc.htm

Edmund's Forums for finding out how much a car should cost. http://forums.edmunds.com/

One of the biggest purchases you will ever make is buying a new car. It is important that you fully understand how much you are actually paying when you purchase or lease a vehicle. It is very easy for a salesperson to hide extra fees or additional charges.

I often get asked if it is better to lease or buy a car. It really just depends on how long you intend to keep the car and how many miles you will drive it each year. If you know that you are going to keep the car for 5 or more years then buying will almost always end up costing you less than leasing.

If you know that you can’t resist the urge to get a new car every 3 years and you drive 15,000 miles per year or less then leasing might be an option.

I lease all of my cars because I have a 12 mile commute to work each day. I only do 12,000 miles a year and I am a sucker for a new car when the latest models are released. I am willing to pay a little extra to have the latest and greatest new car.

However, I don’t let myself get carried away. I make sure that I negotiate the best lease I possibly can. If the dealer doesn’t want to negotiate or if they try to throw in extra fees I simply walk out and go to the next dealer.

There are several key items to negotiating a lease.

First you need to know what all of the factors are in calculating a leases monthly payment. The first factor is the MSRP of the vehicle. This is the MSRP plus any destination charge listed on the window sticker of the car. The destination charge is usually not negotiable because it is set by the manufacturer and not the dealer.

The second factor is the actual selling price of the vehicle. With leases you absolutely must negotiate the selling price of the vehicle down below the MSRP in order to get a good deal. Almost all cars can be negotiated below MSRP and most can even be negotiated below the invoice price.

Dealers get factory incentives and rebates that can allow them to still make a profit even when they sell a car below their actual invoice amount. Make sure you are always aware of what incentives and rebates are available on the car before you start negotiating.

I always go to the Edmunds.com forums and look at their Prices Paid and Lease Questions posts for the vehicle I want. These forum posts will tell you what the going price is for the vehicle you want. I have links to these forums in the description of this video.

Don’t always take everyone’s word on those forums as gospel. Some people post that they got $5000 off on a brand new super popular model. They could easily be lying about their deal or they could have gotten ripped off on their trade-in even though the car they were buying was heavily discounted.

In addition don’t let the dealer temp you into putting money down on a lease. Every single dime you pay upfront will disappear forever if your car is stolen or totaled. The insurance company just pays off the lease if your car is a total loss. You don’t get the money you paid up front back with a lease like you can if you are buying the car. You are much better off trying to get a really low interest rate and rolling everything into the lease than putting money down.

The single easiest way for a dealer to rip someone off on a lease is for them to jack up the money factor. The money factor is just a term that car dealers came up with instead of calling it an interest rate.

Unfortunately, our government sided with the dealers and said that leased vehicles are exempt from the Truth in Lending laws in that the dealers do not have to disclose the money factor to you because they don’t refer to it as an interest rate.

This is an awful exemption to the law and it should be changed. It allows the dealers to commit outright fraud against customers who simply don’t know any better. The key is to learn what this money factor means and what a good value for it is.

The financial institution or Bank that is backing the lease sets two values in the monthly payment calculation. The first value they set is the buy rate or minimum money factor value. This value was intentionally created as a very small decimal value to try to make the consumers think it is not important.

The most common money factor value I have seen is .00162 which equates to an interest rate of 3.89%. You can get the interest rate by multiplying the money factor by 2400. 3.89% really isn’t that great of an interest rate. Reducing the money factor by as little as .0002 could equate to saving 1% off of the price of the vehicle. On a $40,000 car that would mean saving $400.

The second term the financial institution or bank sets is the residual of the car. The residual is simply a guess at the value of the car at the end of the lease and it is expressed as a percentage of the MSRP and not the final selling price of the vehicle. You want the residual to be as high as possible.

The highest residual I have ever seen for a 36 month lease with 12 thousand miles per year is on the Mercedes Benz CLA. It is at 66% right now. That is amazingly high and it means that you are paying thousands less on a lease than you would if the car had a more typical 55%-60% residual even if the cars are the same price.

The important thing to remember about the residual is that if the residual is very high you need to plan on turning the car in to the dealer at the end of the lease. Cars with very high residuals will always be worth less than their residual at the end of the lease. You do not want to buy these cars at the end of the lease.

Leasing is really a gamble. You are betting that the bank has overvalued their car and they are betting that they have undervalued their car. That and they are counting on the fact that the dealer can manipulate the numbers to make it look like you are getting a good deal even when it is not a good deal.

You really need to negotiate the money factor and the selling price of the car. If you only negotiate the selling price then the dealer will almost always increase the money factor by the same amount that they decreased the selling price of the car. They make you think they are discounting the car when they actually are not.

Your best bet is to know what the buy rate is for the money factor and ask for that first thing. Get it in writing if you can. They are not required by law to tell you a money factor. However, if they agree to a money factor in writing they cannot change it. Get them to nail down that money factor first and then start negotiating the price of the car.

Remember most dealers cannot increase the price of the car above the MSRP. However, they can set the money factor to whatever value they want. A dealer tried to charge my .00262 for the money factor which is almost 6.3%. That is a ridiculous interest rate.

If you get the money factor nailed down to the buy rate and they discount the car they can still make the lease really bad by throwing in extra fees. Some of these fees are legitimate fees. However, most of them are just ways that they add in extra profit for themselves.

Almost every lease will have an acquisition fee and a doc fee. These fees may or may not be negotiable. It really just depends on the dealer. A typical value for the lease acquisition fee is about $800. The doc fees are usually around $400. If you can negotiate these down then great. If not then it is still ok as long as the money factor and selling price are low enough.

Once you have a Money factor, MSRP, Selling Price, Residual, and you determine how long the lease is and how many miles you can figure out a monthly payment. Leaseguide.com has a really handy calculator that will take these figures and tell you what the monthly payment will be.

Don’t fall into the trap of allowing the dealer to do the calculation for you. You need to do this calculation yourself. The dealers will almost always play with the numbers when they do the calculation. If their numbers don’t equal your numbers then walk away. They are most likely trying to steal money straight out of your wallet if the numbers don’t match.

If they try to tell you that you are doing the calculation wrong then give me the numbers in the comments below and I will tell you if they are lying or not.

The last and probably most complicated component of the lease are the taxes. The problem is that each state is different. Some states like Texas, Virginia, and Illinois all charge the tax based on the total price of the vehicle even though you are only paying for a portion of the vehicle.

If you live in any of the states that charge tax on leases like that then you will probably find that a lease is not a good option. Taxes in those states are usually $1000 or more higher than taxes in states that don’t charge the taxes on the entire value of the car.

Also remember that the taxes are determined by the state the car is registered in. If you buy a car in Texas but immediately take it to another state to register it they should charge you the taxes based on the state you register it in.

I am not a lawyer so I can’t tell you exactly what the tax laws are for your state. However, if you post a question in the comments about the taxes for your state I will try to help you locate the information about your local taxes.

Once you have all of those pieces of information you can determine the actual monthly payment for the car. A typical monthly payment for a $40,000 vehicle with 12,000 miles per year for 36 months might be a little less than $500 a month plus taxes with no money down and all of the fees rolled into the lease and a 2% discount on the car.

There are other things that can help make the leases more attractive like Multiple Security Deposits. However, those are not always offered so I won’t go into details about those right now.

• 3% paypal and $10 shipping for shipping.

I have a mint Olympus 12mm f2, Panasonic 25mm f1.4, and Olympus 45mm f1.8. All lenses include caps. The 12mm has a ND filter, that can fit the 25mm too. The 45mm has a ND filter and a lens hood.

I am willing to meet locally in LA, too.

Shipping method USPS

Shipping charge No more than $10 per item.

Handling time 1-2 Day Turnaround

References ebay: jaksnak91

Please message me for more info.

Thanks!

The rest of what I have to say is probably influenced by fact that I've never used a shoulder rig. I was able to get some pretty stable stationary shots at times, but sometimes they weren't the most stable. That's probably me not getting used to the rig yet. I did get some beautifully smooth panning and tilting shots, and was able to get those consistently. I have one of those cheap $15 dollar "matte box"/shades, and it fit right onto the rails. But that made me have to push the camera closer to my eye, so it felt too close to see LCD properly. So I actually slid the shoulder pad back, and slightly off the rails (1/3 off, 2/3 on), and all seemed good. If I go with this as a working solution, a bit of tape on pad to rails to ensure no pad slippage should work just fine. I also did some shots walking with the rig, and got mixed results, but that's probably just me not walking properly...and I suppose a stabilizer is really the correct tool for handheld walking shots (or proper dolly/track setup).

Bottom line - if you want a solidly constructed shoulder rig and really don't want to be paying a lot of money, I would definitely recommend this, and at $109 including shipping, it's a pretty damn good deal. @Vitaliy_Kiselev Thanks for this deal. That's 2 for 2 with the deals. (Also ordered the 312AS LED lights and they are great)

Eecorded by 11-time Grammy nominated classical recording engineer Prof. Keith O. Johnson, and produced by Doug Rogers and Nick Phoenix, the EASTWEST/QUANTUM LEAP SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA is the most awarded orchestral collection ever, and the only orchestral collection to be recorded in a "state of the art" concert hall where orchestras mainly perform.

EASTWEST/QUANTUM LEAP PIANOS is the most detailed collection of the world's finest grand pianos ever recorded and includes a Bechstein D-280, Steinway D, Bösendorfer 290, and Yamaha C7, each recorded with 3 mixable mic positions. "These are real acoustic piano sounds. I'm absolutely amazed. EastWest/Quantum Leap has gone the extra mile to provide stunning quality acoustic piano character - the whole collection is superb!" said 12-time Grammy winning pianist and composer Herbie Hancock. "The new meaning of heavyweight. Players agreed that EastWest/Quantum Leap has by far the most detailed and biggest-sounding pianos of the bunch." Said KEYBOARD Magazine. The PLAY interface includes impulses from the same hall the producers used to record Symphonic Orchestra and Symphonic Choirs so the pianos can blend with those collections

Links

• http://www.soundsonline.com
• http://www.soundsonline-europe.com

2 SSDs (switch one out when it's full) - 109$ each for 120g models via newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211588

1 Battery (any reason why you can use the tekkeon batteries? - 120$ from BH.

Thats it.

Want to have a more professional rig? Well if you don't already own one, you can buy cheap one off of PV deals for 100$, and then buy the 50$ adapter from CPM tools for the Tekkeon batteries.

Boom, Cheap BMCC bundle for 3340usd, minimum. Or if you're ambitious, another 150$. oh, and you should probably already have a tripod. if not, WHY?

Mind you, this is the bare MINIMUM one would need to shoot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-FANCIER-3642B-Tripod-NEW-Ball-head-bag-/120747857092?pt=US_Tripods&hash=item1c1d2214c4

Of course, this tripod is made for light stuff :-) And it is not very sturdy tripod either.

Please take a look at this post, I am making a very honest and generous attempt to sell my GH2 for a great price.

here is a post that I posted up on craigslist a few minutes ago just thought I would share it with you all. One of my good friends was moving away and was having a yard sale and really needed the cash so he ended up selling me his 5d Mark II for very cheap and I have gotten heavily into Photography rather than videography.

Hey there CL buyers,

I have an amazing offer for a great camera that I have used a little but really don't have much time to do much with as of late. I can provide pictures of the actual unit and such so don't worry about that at all.

I am selling a Panasonic GH2 with amazing quality along with an entire set which includes:

1. Panasonic GH2 Body
2. 14-42mm 3.5-5.6 kit lens w/ lens hood
3. Adorama Black Camera Back with Strap
4. 8gb Class 10 Professional SDHC card
5. USB SD Card Reader
6. and Professional Lens Cleaning Kit.

There is no damage to the gear and the entire set is free of flaws.

This kit is worth Up to $1,000 and is listed for retail price currently at $914 online but....

I am selling this kit for $800!

This is an amazing camera and an amazing deal, so if you have any questions whatsoever, please contact me.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/673230-REG/Alesis_VIDEOTRACK_VideoTrack_Handheld_Audio_and.html

Has replacable batteries, btw.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360446185677

Going fast.

http://www.adorama.com/IPC1442.html?sub=NZTGD042912Pana1442M43rds&utm_term=Other

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-45-200mm-4-0-5-6-Olympus-Cameras/dp/B001ISKNKA/