ES CINELUX Anamorphic 2x MC test

bitcrusher

I had a hunch that this might be a good solution for shooting anamorphic on a GH2. They are projection lenses that were very common in the last generation film projectors at the cineplex. As movie theaters have "upgraded" to digital projection the cinelux started showing up on eBay for under $200, they sell new on the Schneider website for $3,488.

I don't have a good way to mount them yet but I will get something made soon. I shot this video the same day I got the lenses so the rig was hacked together. The big surprise was the image quality, it's really good...... I don't have anything to compare to it, but it looks better then anything I have seen, maybe better then ISCO's. It will only work with lenses 50mm or higher, I think on super 35 sized sensors it will vignette but works well with m43. It will focus at 1.7 meters without a doppler and still looks good with a large aperture.

I shot this with a Zeiss ZF 50mm f/1.4, and even wide open at 1.4 I had some usable stuff at f2. It looked awesome. The downside with using projector lenses it that you need to focus them with your prime lenses. The way that the Cinelux will focus is with a allen wrench, which is not ideal. Still working on the workflow so this vid is a little sloppy. Shot this with AVCHD.

hunter

It must be a beast! How heavy?

bitcrusher

Its smallish like an 85mm FF lens size. I just weighed it- 597 grams

bitcrusher

Here is a pic.

Gabel

Looks good! You've only squeezed the video about 50%, right? Everything still looks compressed, or did you zoom in?

Flares are good too! Do you need to focus it, or can just focus the lens?

bitcrusher

You are right! I am going to fix it and repost it in a little. I am still a learning the ropes over here, I am going to give mpeg a shot as well. Would kill for a 1:1 sensor mode for AVCHD but I am happy with whatever I can get.

Gabel

Actually 1:1 sensor mode already exists, it's called ETC. I think you mean 4:3 sensor mode. What you need to do is to squeeze it times two, then zoom in 150% to get 2.39:1.

And again, do you need to focus the anamorphic or can you focus just the lens? For mount I would recommend a VidAtlantic clamp (or similar).

EeeCeeGee

I wouldn't recommend the Vid Atalantic clamps not for a huge Lens like the ES Cinelux. Better look for RedStan clamps, they are the best.

Gabel

Good recommendation, RedStan also has great service.

bitcrusher

This guy needs its own adapter made for it, defiantly too big for a clamp. There also needs to be other modifications made to it as well. Focusing with an alen key is insane. I want to get them re-houused into something a little more manageable.

@Gabel I would really love a 1:1 aspect ratio, 4:3 is still too wide for my taste. You need to focus the cenelux and your lens, not very friendly. I hope that some servos and an arduino can make things a little bit more easy for me.

Gabel

Definitely... If you come up with something, let me know.

Oh, by 1:1 sensor, one often means that the pixel are 1:1 size (original, or stills size), which is exactly what the ETC mode does. But you'd like 1:1 to shoot? That would give you an aspect ratio of 2:1, or Univisium, which has only been used by one cinematographer: Vittorio Storaro (who developed the system) and the only anamorphic film with the system is Apocalypse Now (which was original in regular 2.39:1, but cropped to 2:1 for the Redux release) but is now again in it's intended ratio.

soundgh2

+1 for Redstan - Alan has by far the most industrial clamps :)

AshedOutFilms

HOW did you mount that on?

jleo

@bitcrusher Beautiful Video! It looks very sharp.

The older model Cinelux had a knob to focus.

http://tinyurl.com/83qsdrh

ES cinelux Product PDF:

http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/projektion/pdf/es_cinelux_anamorphic_e.pdf

Someone modified the Cinelux for fixed focus , Check comments on how it was done:

From comments: The focus is fixed now I can come as close as 2 feet sharp

I shortened the lens just cutting it in the middle removed all focus rings and attachments - and glued it very precise to a length of 8cm. Of the backscrew in ring I placed a 62mm UV filter without the glass . I glued the frontlense of an olympus wcon 8b - just the frontlense to the anamorphic frontlens. You have to cut several (8) sawcuts in the metal and bend carefully one by one segment till the frontlens .

2 component glue.

everland69 in reply to MattKieleyFilms 9 months ago

klem007

@bitcrusher i love the music in your little test vid, could u tell me the name ? greetz from belgium (:

gl47

Looks impressive! Can you please tell me what focal length Schneider lens or lenses you used here? I see most are 60mm to 90mm but what you have there looks pretty wide?

Thanks,

jleo

@gl47

It doesn't matter what focal length, the back prime lens can be unscrewed, and you just use the anamorphic front lens. There are older lenses with a focus knob. The newer ones don't use a knob.

producer

The problem is that I just can't find a way to dismount the adapter, especially the inner moving tube which holds the front glass and slides for focusing. Even after removing all the screws, the inner tube can't be removed. Any experience and ideas?

kavadni

I love the flares, I shall start searching for one

jupiter1

Hello anamorphic friends, I wrote a post on this Schneider opportunity a while ago. If you wish, have a read through

http://444-films.com/the-last-iscorama-anamorphic/

JohnBarlow · 05-01-12-P1320541.jpg

@producer

the focus is through a threaded bolt into a nut held by the 4 screws and 2 locating lugs see photo. You must remove these screws and pop the lugs out of the body or drill them out (your choice), then completely remove the locking bolt on the other side and unwind the focus until the inner tube comes out.

Warning - getting it back together is a queen bitch :)

The focus mechanism has been designed for set once and forget and not suitable for regular use. If used regularly the threads will wear out and then its a total cluster f+ck

producer

@JohnBarlow:

Thank you very much for your help in advance!

I'm not sure if I'm right or wrong, but what I plan is to cut the back end of the inner black tube a little so that it can move inside more. The reason is that I just can't focus with my Canon FD 50mm 1.4 at closer objects and I think somehow that if I shorten the tube, then the front glass can move in more, so that to go closer to the rear glass. By that way I think I will fix the focus issue.

Do you think I'm on the right way with this idea? Any other hints and ideas?

JohnBarlow

There are machined parts inside which restrict this plan plus you will lose focus ability. Also the glass large radius of curvature is designed for long throw. someone cut one in half to 80mm but had to add a front element to make ii work as a fixed focus only

A cheaper solution is a 0.5D close up filter or a variable close up filter

Alternatively you could rehouse the glass in new tubes