@thoughts2uk You might be fine with that (though you don't mention whether you mean IV 1 or IV 2).

Among the newest other settings, I typically use the Moon 5 Trial. But for sessions where I need proven reliability I will often use settings I'm more familiar with. Sedna and CM Night did well for me in the past (CM Night obviously being better for lowlight situations as it does well with detail in those situations but is slightly more prone to banding) in terms of detail and Flowmotion 2.02 is one of the most reliable settings I've tried for 720 60P that still has a GOP of 6 or lower.

My suggestion would be that if image quality in high motion is a concern, that you rule out anything with a GOP higher than 6.

Here are a lot of the older ones. http://www.personal-view.com/faqs/gh2-hack/gh2-popular-settings

I have not done extensive testing of the final release versions of IV 1 vs IV 2. I can tell you that in their earlier versions used in the earlier beta-testing, I preferred the look of the Smooth Cinema matrix used in IV 2 to the 444 emulation one in IV 1.

But don't overthink it. The differences are not "huge" and both versions of IV will give you good footage.

EDIT: I suppose it might be helpful if I explained why. I found that Smooth Cinema matrix was flattering in the way it handled fine details and light contours, etc. I found that while it preserved a lot of detail, it did not sacrifice overall image quality to do so. It felt very "consistent" and "flattering", while of course maintaining high bitrates and doing well in grades.

I am looking forward to doing some testing of Moon 5 vs. IV 2 if I can find the time soon.

@thoughts2uk Here are the basics.

• 360 degree shutter (where the shutter speed is equal to 1/framerate): This will give you the maximum amount of light (and motion-blur) that you can get for a given framerate without decreasing the framerate. If you are shooting at 60P, that means that a 360 degree shutter is 1/60. If your shutter is lower than this (such as 1/50) then you can't actually get 60 unique images per second. A 360 degree shutter gives what is called the "video look" in regards to motion blur.

• 180 degree shutter (where the shutter speed is equal to 1/(framerate*2)): This will give you a little less motion blur, requires a bit more light and yields somewhat sharper images. This gives you what is called the "film look" in regards to motion blur and there are a lot of shooters (myself included) that rely on it by default for the overwhelming majority of work we do.

For slow-motion you can also go below 180 degree shutter to get even sharper images if you want. I shoot 60P at everything from 1/125 to 1/4000. But I do not like to shoot 60P with a shutter slower than 1/120 (or 1/125 for the GH2) and would advise against it.

So, basically, 1/125 would be my starting point. If you have enough light, you might want to try a few shots with an even faster shutter to see what you like best. The shorter the shutter, the sharper the image and the less blur you get.

@thepalalias Are you sure your first paragraph is right? A 360-degree shutter (1/60 in your example of shooting 60p) doesn't give the "video look", which is defined by its relative freedom from motion blur. It's just the opposite, no? If anything, it helps minimize the video look for 60p footage, although to me eyes 60p always looks like video no matter much motion blur there is.