Keeps me in a job ;p

I don't know what to choose. My Tascam 100 doesnt work for me. This one doesn't seem to have a screw hole plus I don't know if it gives you enough phantom power.

@nomad

I find it quicker & easier to just do it by hand, I don't like all the new timelines Pluraleyes spawns

http://www.sescom.com/product.asp?item=LN2MIC-TASDR100 ?

It's silly easy to build your own resistive attenuation network inside a cable. It's just 4 tiny 1/8W resistors, barely visible to the naked eye. If you could somehow use SMT surface mount resistors you could make the circuit even smaller.

Each channel (left/right) needs one resistor in series with the signal and one resistor from signal to ground. This network should be at the camera end of the cable, not the mic/preamp. For 40db loss, series = 7500 ohm and shunt = 150 ohms. For 30db, change the series resistor to 2200 ohms. Use the right sized stereo mini plug and you could fit the resistors inside the shell.

I've done this and it works great. It's nothing more or less than what Sescom is doing. If you're handy with soldering cables, you can make this up with parts laying around for next to nothing.

So, in fact, Tascam iXZ needs cable replacement (with smaller plug for GH2 also :-) ) and attenuation made.

Anyone plans to buy and test this $49 preamp?

If this will be decent it could be one small business.
Changing cable, adding padding and 1/4" screw.

Speculation, I do not own this product...
Something to keep in mind is that this product is specifically labeled "for iPad/iPod/iPhone" and the specifications state it has a 4-pole connector. According to teh intarwebs (link below) the pinout for these connectors is as follows: 1-left, 2-right, 3-ground, 4-mic. That means that if it's designed to provide recording capability to these devices it likely places it's MONO mic signal on the 4th pin. If you plug this into any kind of standard stereo 3.5mm connector it will short the mic signal to ground and you'll get nothing. You would either need to make a special cable that routes pin 4 -> pin 1 or buy some sort of adapter (assuming one exists).

http://pinouts.ru/HeadsetsHeadphones/iphone_headphone_pinout.shtml

Seems like a better deal to get the ART USB Dual Pre.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/615405-REG/ART_USBDUALPREPS_USB_Dual_Pre_.html

For $20 more, you get 2 combo (XLR & 1/4") inputs, phantom power, attenuated output, headphone output, and will act as a USB device when connected to a computer.

Both are very similar in size, though the USB Dual Pre is a bit deeper.

I just got the ART USB Dual Pre onto my table.

First impressions: When connected to shotgun (Sennheiser MKH 416), phantom on (for sure..), all knobs to maximum I have to get close to the mic and speak quite loud to get the green signal LED flashing. I have to cry straight into the mic to get the red clip LED turning on. I can hear myself in the headphones (Sennheiser HD 25 SP) "ok" when turning monitor level to max, but there I can´t go any higher. I doubt I could judge a sound further away.

This means: The max sensitivity of this preamp is more for recording voice/instruments directly with a mic then recording on set. Since the GH2 has mic level input it and you could get more sensitive in ear headphones this might work out anyways, but for sure the indicators on the device are pretty useless.

Can I use this with something like a Rode Videomic. And if so, how would the quality compare to say a tascam dr-07? Anyone have any experience?

Interesting little product. But for doing serious audio, this is all moot unless there is a way to turn off the auto gain compensation (ie the really slow annoying compression) of the camera's audio input. For instance, you can't record music with any dynamic range very accurately if the camera is trying to auto adjust the levels all the time :) But this might be an interesting product for other purposes, like adding phantom power to a small recorder with only a 1/8" input.